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Yes its rosewood

Apparently the distortion is out of manufacturers tolerance so he's going to measure at worst and tell them to make to to specification

anyone come across this? we had a "safedoors" composite door fitted last week, perfect initially but within a few hours we couldn't lock/unlock without difficulty, having to push it back into the frame to allow it at all. the company that fitted came and had a look, it wasn't as bad by that...

No Idea, the plans say box beam support over' at that point in the rooms below. Maybe to provide Extra rigidity for the truss roof , or act as ties

The schematic for the property says ''box beam support over' at that point in the rooms below

Flameport Room is tiled so less damage putting switch in ceiling, light switch is also a pull so made sense to tuck a new one for fan away in corner. As for the axial humidistat it seems to work quite well, at least at the moment but only a few months in and a short run on ducting

Thanks,that's what I thought . He's pretty insistent so I'll let him put the extra pull cord isolator on as no harm in doing so. Is there really a need for one in the loft too? Again no harm but seems pointless with the pull triple isolator in the room

Updating this old thread, the boxing is a box beam

Untitled by rjm2k posted 7 Jan 2014 at 1:15 PM This is the beam before it was cut

My loft has a box beam running the length of both of the eves of the house, attached on top of the joists at the bottom. We had a bathroom refurbished recently and for one of the spotlights they used a hole saw to go through the beam, for the otgot spot in the same position further along the...

Getting a sparky to install an inline fan for our ensuite, given it's next to the bed we want either a pull switch only arrangement or a timer but with a pull switch we can use to switch off at night. No RCD on light circuit. Isolator apparently has to go in loft. Now I expected the pull switch...

The result of a little pressure with a screwdriver, at least it shouldn't be difficult to take up ! The plans for the house say this is 19mm board, doesn't it look more like loft board than kitchen flooring?

Yes Thanks

Thanks, presumably using shims makes glue on the joists pointless? I will be using 1mm shims. I think I'll screw down and glue the t&g together, see below for existing subfloor in all its glory. Seems a mix of 33 and 49 cm boards ? Ordered a vat of PVA, is it worth sealing the surface of the...

Got the egger board, it seems heavily geared to using their joint and joist adhesive. Do people generally do that or use mechanical fixing? Thanks

If I replace the subfloor with either t&g boards or ply, do I really need the hardboard on top? Thanks

thanks, i'm planning to lay a vinyl sheet on top, though the floor in the property it pretty poor anyway, a leak from underneath an appliance which was concealed by click laminate tiles was the final staw for this area I think, so I want to make sure nothing can get through again. as for joist...

Due to already spongy floor patches throughout and a leaking dishwasher it looks like I need to replace approx 6sqm of t&g chipboard which feels like it's going through. The replacement will abutt 19mm chipboard but I plan to use ply and can only get 18mm ply, would you add shims only directly...

moot point anyway for now, it turns out the chipboard underneath has gone spongy so will look to replace, fortunatly it's only a 6sqm area , probably with ply as this is becoming a frequent thing in different rooms cheers

I've got 6x2 from Wickes, the more trade type places like jewson only do bigger sheets from my enquiries. Thanks anyway