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you could link it out but you can also check switch electrically without power on using multimeter. Check if you are getting continuity between common and normally open when you make switch by sucking and pinching

quickly check that the o heat stat under boiler hasnt tripped first

sounds like expansion vessel issue to me, lots of threads about fixing this are on this site mate

surely it must be going off when the overheat stat trips, otherwise it would just boil, turn into steam and burst heat exchanger

its pretty hard to determine what is wrong with it without standing in front of it. Sounds like there is possibly more than one fault with it. As you say it could be the APS ,sometimes these get stuck in the no prove position or the diaphragm part bursts,you could use a multimeter on this with...

that rad may be just slightly higher than the rest therefore the air already in the system is being depositited in this rad. Another is corrosion in pipework causing (gassing) try lighting vent while you are bleeding the rad, this will tell you if this is the case or not, dont worry you wont...

i have just noticed you have wrote constantly but is that constantly when heating is on or just constantly and is only hot when the heating is on

check the condition of the flame sensing electrode and if in doubt give it a rub with some steel wool and check the gap between it and the burner is around the thickness of a pound coin

sounds like the expansion vessel regarding the water being discharged from the blow off pipe, i take it the pressure on the front panel is at 3 when this is happening. there is plenty of info on this site regarding recharging an expansion vessel but if you are toiling i will write out a...

sounds like auto air vent is passing water slightly, go to local merchants and get a new one, fitting should be easy as highest point of system so no big drain down required, just drain boiler at prv or boiler drain cock to release some pressure

its sounds like kettling but as said , need more info

i would check the flow switch first, cheap and easy to change. These boilers are quite pants, every one ive worked on needed expansion vessel recharged

sounds like the overheat interupter linked to the thermocouple at gas valve end, you could test this by linking it out with wire, dont give yourself a shock though

is this a vokera, what make and model

Thermistors :- With the power off unplug the connector and test resistance is 10k ohms at 25°C If you have a decent multimeter you could try this Could be a few things causing possibly gas valve or modureg issue as well but you would need a dog card for that

didnt know that, to stray off subject slightly, what happens in a situation where part L has not been followed correctly, still know some guys fitting non condensing combis as they are 10 a penny now.

take off 2 screws and fold down front panel. Drain boiler using prv, (red valve, turn). go to back of boiler next to flue and take off the 4 screws at top,and remove metal plate, this gives you access to the exp vessel. Take off cap of schraeder valve and use a bike pump to recharge vessel...

take trv off of hallway rad and get monkeyboy back to fit room stat as you need a control to switch the boiler off electrically and not just have boiler stat /potentiometer cycling off/on all the time

take casing off and drain boiler through prv, (red , with 3 bar written on it) Take the flexi pipe that joins the vessel to pump housing prv area and clean, will be full of black gung. (use long thin screwdriver) Cover pcb with dust sheet when taking pipe off. Reconnect and then use an air...

also, check that there is a bypass fitted between flow and return before the zone valves, this is just an interconnecting pipe between the pipes to allow the water to circulate when controls have been satisfied