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This is basically what we did I fitted noggins between the floor joists as they didnt seem to bother in the 50s! 100mm PIR insulation, all foamed in and foil taped joins. Then 18mm ply, with the gaps sealed up. We fitted HMRV, it was a doddle in a bungalow, but not during this warm weather...

Where you remove tile you will need a plasterer, so for not a lot more money they can re-skim the ceiling, and blend it into the bedroom. With that in mind, maybe just drop the entire ceiling of the bathroom whilst it still has a door, and then you can remove everything properly. Might even be...

I'm 39, and started building my 80 square metre extension in January 2022. It's now built and knocked through to the house, and I am converting the old living room into 2 bathrooms and a walk in wardrobe. I had a digger driver for 5 days for groundwork, and worked with a blockie for 3 weeks (I...

50mm metal stud at 400mm centres, with 50mm Rockwool RWA45 between would be good (They design them for 600mm centres, so cut cut them into 3x 400 sections from a 1200mm long panel). Use blue soundshield plasterboard, 2x 12.5mm layers if you can, or a single 15mm layer. Keep the studs 10mm off...

I used BlackJack, 2 coats. It stank, but seems to have worked, 2 years on.

It is standard - I didn't even realise until I read the instructions. The app is reasonable, allows you to test all alarms and then email a report - handy if you need to demonstrate regular testing.

Not suggesting anything really, but you said you thought a heat alarm would only work with a fairly established fire, I said ours was just a candle. Aico do a combined heat and optical smoke alarm, maybe that's the best way? https://www.aico.co.uk/product/ei3024-multi-sensor-fire-alarm/ No...

I think there was very little smoke, from memory, at that point. It was 5am and all a bit of a blur. No we aren't using wireless, all are mains interconnected. But we could have added expensive wireless interlink bases. You press the test button 3 times within a few seconds, and set the...

A morning is very hopeful. The mist coat will dryfast, but getting the final coat on in a morning is risky, as the second coat is unlikely to be dry. Unless they plan to mist coat, and then 1 very heavy coat to finish! Might work..... Seems like a situation where the 3rd coat might rip the...

No way! The tin usually has the bare plaster / mist coat instructions, and its 10-20% water in the first coat.

We had a fire about a year ago. A candle left on the kitchen island at bed time. The heat detector caught it before any damage other than a smoke blackened ceiling occurred. They detect a rapid rise in temperature, not a 'hot day' scenario. The heat detector noted a peak of 78degrees c - the...

Ive often found the rudest to be the best - they arent messing around, and will get the job done properly. It's the salesmen, promising the world and chatting for ages and slagging off the competition, that you need to be careful of!

We repaired our sunken parts with grit sand. Kiln dried sand is for brushing easily into the gaps between the blocks, so you will need a little bit. Ours was sunken because a HIAB extended a leg onto it, and lifted off a heavy load.

Head to a proper paint shop, who will be able to provide what you need, in any colour you can dream of. I've previously used Dulux Trade Diamond Eggshell. It is mid-sheen, but very good in a bathroom I found.

Ours was nice and solid when we went to remove it.... only because of the connection into the ground it turned out. The wall brackets were fixed to wooden plugs, pre-dating Rawl type ones, and they were rotten. We cut through the stack at the bottom, a very gentle pull and the whole 3.5m of...

I think I could build a swing out of 1mm T+E, and it would last well!

Sorry to drag this post almost back to topic, but I think I missed AMD3 in some resopects.... So if I am reading @JohnW2 correctly, a 'power' circuit no longer has to be 1.5mm cores, and in fact 1mm will be fine where the circuit breaker is appropriate. I say this weeks after buying a roll of...

A lot depends how big the slab will be. I set ply vertically with a laser level, and stacked a load of 6" blocks to the outside. Having used the laser, I knew the ply boxing was within 2mm accuracy. Filled the box I'd made with concrete, and used a length of 4x2 wider than box to level it...

A few concrete screws with Form A washers will be fine. Quick and easy.

50mm in an 80mm wall is fine.... I cannot prove it but I think the wall I partially filled performs better than the one I full filled. There is a theory that the sound is killed off better when it has air space and has to pass materials of varying density, all gets too complex for me though!