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My windows from 1997 had foam tape holding them. It took a guy outside up the ladder to catch the glass, and a guy inside putting all his weight on the glass (carefully) to remove the unit. I had no concerns after seeing that.

Thanks, it seems a new one is worth £130ish still. I have found one without box and accessories on eBay for £38, which may be the best course of action, as all the accessories I have are fine. Ill think about it, as I do also have a Bosch 18v one, but this is my preferred one usually.

I didn't notice the heat, although I was wearing gloves. But I was using it for sanding, so no real intense pressure or anything. When it slowed, I did leave it an hour or so to cool - running it with no load didn't occur to me, but I also fear it would have been worse if it was already...

Oh no! What causes this sort of thing to happen? I had been using it for about half an hour without break.... did I kill it or just bad luck?

Hi all, Looking for a bit of help with repairing my Makita TM3000C multitool. I was using it a couple of weeks ago, and it suddenly slowed down. I left it to cool off, but upon trying again it spun very slowly as seen through the casing, and started to make a mild burning smell. My first...

Wow, 35 circuits across 4 boards, and 4 contactors?!! I've never seen anything quite so vast in a house....

Get them to adjust the top units to make it level and a tighter fit. As none of the units seem to be adjoining full height units, it would be completely unnoticeable (Unless there is something to the right we cannot see, even then they could be lowered a bit and the plinths adjusted if...

We have one of those, with rigid plastic ducting connected. It cost an absolute fortune, but I suppose it looks nice.....

If you want the threshold to be low, you need to cut however much you need really. So yes, cut down 80mm. Maybe check with the supplier first though. 80mm would be a hell of a step if you did nothing.

Ideally a 9" grinder, as you need to cut the thickness back of the frame. But if you haven't used one before they are a bit scary. A 4" grinder could be used, but would need to cut it a couple of gos. Then a SDS breaker with a point bit, to remove the concrete.

I got my units mixed up when I read yours! I’d cut to about 40mm, so threshold plus 10mm.

Yes grind it to the correct levels, or a bit below so you can get a bed of mortar against the frame. Cills are 30mm on PVC windows and doors, assume you mean that and not 300mm?! I'd cut 320mm if you are aiming for flush threshold inside, unless the door has a low threshold.

Hopefully it’s overcast, as I found water based adhesive gripped immediately and didn’t allow much movement afterwards. Made resitting and rough bits hard work

Firestone looks like a tyre inner tube. Hertalan looks a lot nicer and isn't shiney.

I'd go with careful tbh... you don't need to score it very deep. I understand it's not ideal.....

That might not be fun if the grinder snags on the wood.....

Hi Stuart, It is block work on the old and the new, albeit 60 years different in age. The fireplace was brick, and that was entirely removed. Seems to be very very many products suitable for repairs... just have to pick the right one?!

I had a good go at this today, taking on board advice but being a little restricted on filler choices (Its Jersey!) - PVA'd the areas I'd removed the plaster, and laid in 4" skrim. Added a layer of Toupret Fibarex filler (Says external use but imagine its fine internal). Waited about an hour...

There was in fact tape in there, I assume @ree has spotted the square markings in the hardwall where the skrim was attached... I used it to rip off the loose plaster.

I was thinking, as the cracks were hairline, that it was just settlement from when the new bit of wall was built. Im concerned about damaging the wall further if I dig out the hardwall, and the very solid sand and cement on the original wall. The background join is the meeting of the old to...