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Then you should have known you don't lay blocks with cement..... 3 tonne of cement is enough for an estate. Honestly there is no harm in getting in a bricky and labouring for them. 3000 blocks will take them about 2 weeks to lay.

Another skin is an expensive option. Ewi is one option or EML then render is another if you want a render finish and don't need building regs. You'll need to work out if you need to upgrade the thermal resistance of your walls. Then expose the foundation to see if you have enough room to build off.

No, you don't just use cement to lay blocks you need to make a mix called mortar. Depending on the required strength it can be 1 part cement by volume to 3 parts sand by volume to 1 part cement to 9 parts sand. If you are about to lay 3000 blocks and don't know this I would reconsider (as it...

I'd use a tile backer board, cement board, instead of plaster board even if you are tanking it.

Not really, all you are doing is forcing poopy water into your drainage field. You might, under heavy rainfall, be forcing solids into your soak away pipes and blocking them. Foul and runoff should not be mixed as already stated, you'll never get the bacterial process up and running to break...

Those brown bits look a bit like horse poo.

If you are struggling have Google for your local block manufacturer, they will do a lightweight aggregate block.

Is this slab to be covered in insulation and then a screed? If it is they you don't really need an anti cracking mesh (e.g. A142 is about standard for domestic), if it's your finished floor then you'll want it in. There is no trouble standing on the mesh at all, if he's that worried about...

Where are you putting your cavity trays? Gas membrane detailing below.

Looks fine, 2&3 make sure your walls render is in good condition.

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Yes, there is water getting in the cavity of the extension. I am not sure is there would be staining around the pipe box as it looks long enough to penitrate into the cavity. The cavity wall insulation will be directing the water all over the place, did they use full fill or PIR? But anyway...

There is different grades of insulation, the cheaper stuff has a lot more recycled glass in it, virgin glass is nicer to work with. The stuff Eon which was giving away for £1 a roll about 10 years ago had so much metal and other **** in it it was nasty to work with.

So you new extension does not have a cavity, what is the wall construction?

The roof is a tidy job so my initial thoughts would be to blame the builder, but that does not help :D What the roofer is saying deffindefi makes sense. The brick wall is wet also so it looks like the water is getting into the cavity. You need to pull back the stones on the roof around the...

I don't get this, are you saying the modern thing is to not use a concrete oversite under a suspended timber floor?

You might be lucky there and find the opening has been made smaller. Check there is a lintel before anything else. Putting a new lintel is straight forward but you will need props.

Really just a different way to install them. Roll is easier if you have to cut anything down. You'd normally use roll for floors, slabs are normally for walls.

Fire regs for external or internal? Also read this thread https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/timber-frame-footings.507880/

I think that will be a fight to get out. I am sure if you put a joist into a chimney there would be quite a few problems. Start at the top take the plaster off and have a look at what's going on. It'll be interesting to see where the breast is.