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I can't imagine there being any theoretical max thickness. As already stated just stick 25mm of eps under your kingspan (or whatever), it's only £5 a sheet.

The 'render' in the last picture is just whats dropped on the plaster board/laths from above. If it's 4" in the middle but only 1/2" at each end the bricks moved out. If it's 4" all along and the house has not fallen down then the walls not moved. Just for us here in internet land stick a rule...

Thicker floor slab = slower response which does not always equal a worse thing. I have UFH in 100mm concrete slab, no problems in heating up just takes 3 hours so you have to set the timer back.

SBR or go for a external tile adhesive.

I returned home to find this post and wondered why this is a single skin extension. The ends closest to the original house needs some nail plates/ joist hangers.

Wow, have you gone through small claims to get your money back? If you have defiantly pull it down and start again. What ever you do, as already stated, you're going to be fighting with it. You're going to get water ingress over the dpm and into the timbers especially the front. You can't have...

Are you insulating your walls, if you are EWI or IWI? If you are internally insulating I'd have thought a total limecrete floor would have been better. Have you got mhrv?

Use the limecrete as your floor finish, maybe polish it? What insulation are you using?

It's not something I've come across on domestic contracts. If a customer chose a more expensive bath and supplied it, then they take on the responsibility for delivery any anything that might go wrong with it. If they they chose a bath out of 'my' catalog they would still pay retail and I'd...

It's not the best way. Your pea gravel will move when you lay the concrete, it'll also be hard to wheel barrow over. I would be worried about cracking and movement but as it's not exposed and is a small area this may not be a problem. 6 to 1 is fine, you could go a little stronger at 5 to 1...

Waaaaaa! Hang on! Where did you manage to get your lovely wife from?

So ideally you want at least 100mm of hardcore and then then 75mm on concrete. If I was laying artificial turf I'd do it on hardcore so there would be less chance of standing water and would not need any drainage.

It's a kitchen, it's where you'll fine women.

Foundations can be as deep as 0 if you're building on rock. You only need to go down to suitable ground even if you have trees nearby, 'bedrock' (rocky soil) some places is quite close to the surface. Frost level in granular material in the UK is 450mm. However I've seen rafts and exposed slabs...

Fill it with expanding foam then mastic.

The guy who runs https://www.scaffoldingsupplies.co.uk is a good bloke, they have just moved. I can't comment on delivery as I pick up.

Might not need planning. It would have been nice of them to have a chat with you regarding what's going one but then again you've not had a chat with them asking what's going on. Not sure why they are packing soil into the wall. Tell them not to as it will make your wall damp.

Look up your local steel stock holder. Is this for scaffolding? I use Kwick stage and find that very good more expensive though.

Looks more like horse hair plaster.