Search results

Would it not be cheaper to resolve the problem caused? Add more sub floor ventilation would be a start.

Might be cheaper doing 150 or 200mm studword then blown insulation. Or a Larsen truss if you get 3x2 for free.

Freddie has already posted your answer.

Cavity batt sits on wall ties, are you sure you're just not inventing a problem.

Your DPM should lap up over the block work and under your door. Just screed up to the block work and then depending on your floor covering add a bit of timber to make up any difference.

Has the floor got a dpm in it? 1965 could swing both ways. You could take a course of bricks off and add a plastic one then fill with concrete.

A morter mix won't do it, you don't have the height and it won't stick unless you use sbr. Best would be an external tile adhesive. You could try Bondo if you've got some.

The hardest part is the toeing and healing. Otherwise the door will drop. As long as you get help with the frame you can glaze it on you own.

You won't normally need 7 n unless it's 3 or more stories

It seems bonkers to me. A 50mm buttress will do very little. You're tied in at the top and bottom of the wall. You can use angle iron and gun ties in, that will be cheaper than a windpost. What is the total length of the wall? What are your ceiling heights?

What construction is the house?

What why how hurrrrrr? What are you going to in do in your shed that it needs to feel like a bunker? Surly the practicality of the building should out weigh how it 'feels' unless you are making some statement piece or some art...

Liquid screed over a timber floor, that's a new one on me. But I guess you've talked to the supplier and they've OKed it. 8mm over 3m is fine as long as the depth is sufficient, best taking to your supplier and asking as all liquid have different properties.

Spray foam is big in the USA. It's a valid solution if done correctly. Though I would not have it done on my house.

Have a think about your floor finish as if you are to tile it after power floating it it'll need shot blasting or similar. It's not hard to power float, don't be scared to get on the wet concrete. You can get on it earlier with the pan. It'll look a right mess but don't worry. Don't float with...

One man boob would just look wrong.

Yeah stick some in, no harm and they are free. But for your concrete it would not really make any difference as it does not matter if it cracks in odd places. Your screed supplier will beadle to guide you on any expansion cuts as each product is different.

12mm is not enough, get 100mm or you risk them popping out.

1 you don't need reg 2 you can get conservatories with steel in the frames. 3 they are not difficult to put up as long as you have a couple of people to help. Though I think conservatories are a waste of space too hot or too cold but maybe they work well in Wales.

Bag of self leveler and a bag of sand? A weak mix of s&c with 25mm celotex over the top? SBR and fibers would work also.