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Hi, re your latest pic. In that case I would line with polythene, fit an offcut of rigid insulation (to avoid a cold spot on the floor), then wood fillet, sand level to match surrounding flooring. If the vinyl is cishioned, you shouldn't in theory need underlay, but I would be tempted to use...

What is the sub floor - its difficult to tell? I would be tempted to just use an appropriately sized fillet of wood hammered in flush, then use an underlay to smooth out any slight imperfections in the floor surface, followed by the vinyl

Any particular reason for two ensuites? I'm assuming their is already a family bathroom, so that would mean 3 bathrooms for what is presumably a standard sized family house, which seems excessive. What about a jack and jill bathroom (one bathroom - access from both bedrooms)? It would mave it a...

As long as the pointing isn't horrendous (ie bricks loose or falling out), then just leave as is. For insulation, create a studwork, infill with insulation, possibly a vapor control layer, then plasterboard - like this.... http://www.superhomes.org.uk/resources/insulating-a-solid-wall/

Definately go for plaster, and yes beads on corners. Decent guide available here.... http://www.british-gypsum.com/~/media/Files/British-Gypsum/Brochures-and-Leaflets/Renovation-Guide/Finishing-guide-for-Thistle-plaster-and-Gyproc-Plasterboard.pdf

Just a warning, if you are actually getting into the tank to remove debris, then you really need full PPE and breathing apparatus - the sludge is likely to be human waste, so full of bacteria and giving off allsorts of unpleasant and lethal fumes. Personally, i wouldn't go in it at all, is it...

Aside from protecting the DPC, the other main issue will be access. You will be moving a great deal of material in and out, so labour costs will be high if there is only restricted pedestrian access and everything has to be carried in and out by hand or barrow

There are all sorts of glues that would suit, but why second guess it? Why not leave it up to the fitters, that way if there is any problem you will have some redress.

Glue :wink:

Put it this way, I paid £300, to have mine fitted - was a rush job though, a few days before christmas after I have come home pi55ed one night and discovered I had lost my keys and tried to kick my way in and proceeded to demolish the door..... :oops: I would imagine at a normal time you woule...

Just use patching plaster. Available at any of the DIY sheds. In fact I think some even sell ready mixed tub stuff. If there are enough damaged areas for it to be worthwhile, I'd also invest in a plasterers float, you will get a better finish than just using a filling knife or similar.

I don't know why people are so obsessed with keeping things immaculate. To me, those slabs just look naturally weathered and perfectly ok. Sorry OP, don't want to sound like I'm having a go.

Your picture is carp and the description even worse! What are the holes? do you mean that tiles have slipped? Been damaged? Are you worried that the underside of the roof appears to be unfelted? Need more info.

what does the cost include? Just cutting the hole and fitting a lintel? Or making good brickwork either side outside? making good plasterwork inside? Fitting the new door? Fitting the door furniture? Fitting architrave? A threshold?

You could get another block made up quite cheaply i imagine by a stonemason. It looks like its just a square block with a chamfer along one edge in some type of granite. Also the stonework above is supported to the left so it will be a fairly easy job to remove that damaged block and fit the new...

Why not just get it plastered out and either put some battens and shelves up, or buy a small cheap unit to place inside. If you lack the ability to build a simple box, then I think the solution you are suggesting is likely to look like a dogs dinner.

Unless the kennel weighs the size of a small house, or the rabbits are the size of elephants, then there won't be any significant movement to worry about. Just level the gravel, bed some slabs onto it and plonk the kennel and run on top.

http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=244114

OP, if you do use the screws, make sure you don't have the drill on hammer setting! put some masking take on the tile where you are going to drill to avoid the drill bit sliding around. You can use a special tile drill bit, but I would just use a masonry bit and take it steady.

Glad I'm not the only one who gets bl00dy annoyed at that!!!!!