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Its a good job you pointed at it in that first pic or I'd have never noticed it! :lol:

If there is room once you have removed that insulation, I would think a simple repair by spanning the crack on either side with fresh wood bolted through the existing joist would suffice.

I would use L brackets resin bonded to the inside face of the top and uprights and set into the plasterwork of the fireplace and mechanically fixed to whatever is beneath the plaster (brick/block etc). The hearth will be self supporting due to its weight and the fact that the sides are sat on...

use the green felt type sheets as underlay as they will take out the amount of discrepency of 8mm which you have.

Are these the manufacturers? http://lonsdalemetal.co.uk/index.html If so, try emailing them a pic to see if they can help.

As you will be at b and q anyway buying the staple gun - try typing c h i c k e n w i r e into their search box and low and behold! :wink:

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but they dont work. if you have spent as much as it appears you have, then you need to find a way of scissoring ducting to the rsj and feeding it outside. The ducting and rsj can be boxed in in the way you have described.

Either search for 'offset door handle' (the offset being to allow access to the keyhole) or just search for patio door handle. There are over 600 designs listed on ebay for example. It does not have to be identical, it just needs to have either screw holes and lock hole to match your dimensions...

how are you going to duct the air away?

Ok, this may sound like a silly question (never done any bricklaying myself) but........I understand that metal wall ties eventually fail after time through rust/corrosion, so.......why do they not make them out of plastic? Surely it would be as cheap and as strong and would last for ever?

No, they don't cause harm, are highly unlikely to block the vent as the nest will probably be some way in, attached to a joist (hence why you can hear under the floorboards. In any case, the nests are usually very small and only last a few months and are then abandoned when the queen leaves...

Are those stains, or low spots where the sander hasn't removed the top surface?

As stated, depending on your skills, either scarf in a new piece of wood, or use a resin filler.

If you are adament, then you will need to start by punching all the nails in the floor below the surface so they don't catch on the sander. You will then need to hire a floor sander and an edging sander - you will also need to purchase from the hire shop all the grades of sanding belt you will...

I would seriously consider getting a proffesional in, particularly downstairs. It is very difficult to get a good finish, particularly if you have not done it before. I consider myself a competent diyer, but I did it in my last house - took ages and cost a fortune in materials (I got the most...

Definately need pics once finished! (and at each stage please!) How long are you figuring it will take? Also what colour are you thinking of for the bodywork and upholstery?

Cough...bullsh1t...cough.... A poor worker always blames his tools (or materials!) using a proper clamped straight edge and a brand new laminate cutting bit, he should have been able to get a perfect cut. I would guess he has fed the router along too quickly, causing the splitting you have shown.

If you don't want to go the whole hog of building a mezzanine (or have trouble finding someone to do it), have you tried looking at a raised bed option? There are loads of places that sell what is effectively a bunk bed, but with only one bed on top, but the bottom 'bunk' consisting of either...

Yep, not good. Are you saying that the builder fitted the kitchen? Whatever the case, its not acceptable. Its not difficult to cut a laminate top neatly if you use the right blade and take care. Point out the problem and demand it is put right. Luckily it only appears from your pics to be a...

Need a better pic showing the context