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To be honest (and I think the photos make this obvious) the current spaghetti junction of pipe and valves needs sorting in order to improve access and make the pipework easier to work on in future, should the need arise. But thanks anyhow for sharing your thoughts.

Thanks both. I’ve already got the tap tail adaptors, but if I leave the pipework as is, where do I connect them when the isolators are below the garden tap and WM connections?

Can't open that link, I'm afraid.

My current intention is to cut out the existing isolation valves along with the connections to the washing machine and the garden tap and the pipework above, then install new inline compression valves for the WM and garden tap below, with new, flat faced isolation valves above to take the...

Will do, cheers. The wildlife in that corner of the kitchen cupboard won’t be happy about the oily smell, but sod em. I’ve also bought a key for use on the old fashioned outdoor stopcock in the pavement.

Couple of options to guard against that eventuality: a stopcock which is also under the sink, probably hasn’t been touched since Noah was a lad and will probably leak if interfered with, or the spindle out in the street. Either or both are likely to work.

Ah yes, there is a garden tap on the outside of that very wall, but its not working. Perhaps turned off via one of those valves. So with luck, I'm simply looking at a washing machine feed and a feed to a garden tap. All I need to do now is drive the 50 miles to my daughter's house and check for...

Providing those connections are not boiler related, I'm happy to disconnect and reconnect them myself. Is it feasible that a boiler might be supplied by a feed like the ones in the photos? I'm no expert but I'd hazard a guess that only hard pipe is allowed in a situation like that, although...

Nothing as posh as that, sadly.

There's no dishwasher: the only appliances being supplied by water in her kitchen are the offending tap and her washing machine.

Afternoon all My daughter moved into her current, late Victorian house 6 months ago. Amongst the numerous issues that need sorting out is a horrible old kitchen mixer tap, which I recently volunteered to replace. I'm OK with basic plumbing, but having purchased all the fittings I thought I'd...

Reckon it’s appropriate to provide an update. I bought the Screwfix scraper thingy and attached it to the drain rods, taping all the connections to make sure I didn’t lose anything, and pushed it into the gap. The scraper is much smaller than the gap’s width so it took multiple “drags” to remove...

Ah yes, that would make sense. I've moved on to something else since posting my OP, but the drain rod route will be my first port of call once I return to this task. Thanks all, once again.

Yes, true enough. I’ll see what transpires, once I can lay my hands on the rods.

Cracking idea, and I do in fact already possess a set of drain rods. Will give that a go.

Hi Martynrbell, no, it didn't solve the problem: not long term, anyhow. Because it was so badly damaged by the condensation I eventually ended up replacing the kitchen corner cupboard: a Hellish job because for reasons I won't go into, the new cupboard couldn't be built in situ, but had to be...

In principle an excellent idea, but its an asbestos roof so unlikely to take my weight.

Thanks for that. I did try blowing the rubbish with a leaf blower through a length of 68mm downpipe, but the downpipe was wider than the nozzle so the results were disappointing. However, that did alert me to the solution that you've just expanded on, using narrower pipe.

Interesting shout but sadly, the only "skinny person" who could fit in that gap is a skeleton.

Aye, that's probably do it.