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The window seems to perfectly match the pitch of the roof - the steelwork looks like it's at a much steeper pitch than shown on the plans. I'm not sure that the steel posts are necessary either, but that's a question for the SE.

How much money have you given the builder so far? I wouldn't be giving them another penny until it's rectified. To be honest, infilling above the door with timber isn't a difficult job but how the steelwork ended up so far out (and why the builder didn't get it remade to the correct angle when...

Plus you'd not be able to fit the outer brick skin...

Exactly that yes! Obviously the beam needs to be narrow enough that you can get a course of brickwork in front of it.

Well...since my idiot 11 year old son decided to play with pebbles on the patio a little while ago, I'm about to find out :LOL: Luckily he only smashed the outer pane so haven't rushed to get it fixed, but I've actually just given the dimensions to the supplier so I'll update you when they give...

A friend of mine just had a quote of around £4500 installed in a 3 bed semi, apparently with air conditioning upstairs and downstairs.

You can get bifolds with integral blinds within the glass panel, which you can pull down during the most sunny times and help prevent the worst solar gain. For heat loss in winter, go for glazing with the best U-value that you can afford. The U-value of a decent bifold door is better than a...

A beam with a bottom plate to carry the outer brickwork would be suitable. If the wall is rendered then you could just stick in a wider beam and render to expanded metal lath between the beam flanges. You might get a precast concrete lintel to work depending on the loads above.

Why are you putting a lintel in? Is there a problem with the existing window or are you replacing it? If not, just leave it as it is? If you do put in a new lintel, you should be able to bear it onto the existing columns with no problems. You'll only be cutting out a small area and it will sit...

He always had the option :p

It's "public" but it's still domestic, I assume. Therefore they won't check what you do (at least Thames don't). Not telling you to bend or break the rules, but when I did mine they wanted me to build the new inspection chamber (basically just a rodding point) in brick to be like for like with...

They won't check what you actually install if it's a domestic sewer.

Where did the OP say they were knocking down the lean-to, or extending? They just seemed to have the idea that if they change the roof they would have to rebuild if the foundations don't comply with current regs. They wouldn't have to do anything to the foundations as long as the foundations are...

You find out the depth of the foundations by digging a trial hole. The depth of the foundation isn't really the issue when increasing the load - width is what we need to be concerned about. I can be pretty sure though that considering it's a single storey extension, the load won't be increasing...

Well, "typical" homes (ones built by the Taylor Wimpeys, Bellways etc) tend to not be more than 9m long to avoid the issue stated in the extract above. If they are, typically they will have a load-bearing buttressing wall splitting up the 9m length. I do remember an occasion where a colleague...

This is direct from the BS for Low Rise Buildings. Anything more than 9.0m in length requires buttressing unless it can be proved to work by other methods. While it may be possible to prove buttressing isn't required for buildings longer than 9m, the additional design time means that most...

Paint them

Assuming the other foundations are perpendicular to the one being removed, it shouldn't destabilise them. Full underpinning can be done in 1m sections so it's possible to undermine locally and temporarily as long as it's done in a safe and controlled manner. If there is a concrete foundation...

Yes, remove what you need to, but if you remove everything it's an entirely new foundation and then technically it should comply with current regs which might mean digging deeper and pouring new concrete.

What are the closest trees? I'm assuming Oak or Poplar if foundations need to be that deep at 7m away? Have you had the soil tested for volume change potential? If low volume change potential you might be able to get away with shallower footings. Pad and ground beam is an alternative to piles...