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Can you find out what spotlights have been installed? Is there any stickers/information on them? They may/may not be double insulated amongst other potential issues depending what ones they have installed.

Its the 10.8kw model he has.

Well for a start those instructions say it requires 45a and its on a 40a. I would try find out what pull cord they have used as that might be underrated and cause you some issues eventually. Isolate the supply and see if you can see any markings on the back of the switch. Is the shower protected...

That cable looks like its had a bit of abrasion going on in various places, I wonder what the rest of inside that dry lining box looks like. Do you know what pull cord switch they used? Also what does the installation instructions say regarding the fuse rating for the shower? OP can you tell...

Did you previously have an electric shower? If you did, do you know the KW rating of both the new and old one? Did they reuse the existing shower electric cable or run a new cable? Do you know what rating Fuse/MCB is protecting it? Does it have any RCD protection?

There's not even any earth continuity between all the T&E. Do you know what spotlights you have had installed and if they require an earth? I'm going to take a guess that CAT5 cable side is 12v for the LED. But still, its not the right cable for the job. But just looking at those photos it...

For what reason did it fail? Do you have a copy of the paperwork? Also it failing might/might not have anything to do with the leak.

looking at the image8.pdf it looks like this is for use with an hot water heater in which case you have cold in from the mains (A), B is the cold return feed to a hot water heater, and C is your hot water feed. Dan beat me to it.

Absolutely sure, as some more water was forced out the drain off as I was pumping it up. I even did it all twice as I forgot to open one side of the radiator first time and thought probably both flow and return sides need to be open at the radiator. I double checked that the drain off was open...

I got as much water out as would come out of the valve, it was hard to contain the water so some kitchen roll was needed but it didn't seem like there was very much water in the air side (maybe a couple of shots worth at most). I'll see what the pressure is like when I get home and then fire up...

So I closed most of the radiators I could get to (couple are inaccessible) opened the drain off and let whatever pressure / water in the system out. When pumping the expansion vessel back up it felt like I could keep pumping forever until eventually it started to hold some pressure which dropped...

Yeah I prefer to try narrow down problems before trying different things and wasting time/money. If I get chance tonight I will do some further tests as above to see if the vessel truly has had it or not, if not then will have to trust the engineer coming tomorrow will be on the ball. Will post...

Thanks Madrab. If I can get them to replace the faulty one then that would be preferred as I don't want to have to add another thing to my to-do list. If the vessel is part of the boiler cover I have I don't see why they shouldn't go to the trouble to swap it out. I shall see what they say/do...

Boiler maintenance/repair company already notified and due out Thursday (providing my claim is valid for the policy) I am just asking for clarification/confirmation so I know what to expect. If the flue seal part cannot be answered due to fear of DIY please omit this question. Long post so I...

Although that wont stop these so called engineers/fitters who will come to install a cooker and then refuse to do it due to nearby sockets etc...