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I was meaning when stripping the outer insulation that you don't cut into the inner/individual insulation. Also when stripping the individual wires you don't cut off any strands of copper.

You will not instantly save any energy/money by having one installed. If anything you might spend a few extra £/p by plugging in the display to see the usage. However they can highlight usage patterns and maybe make you more aware of your usage but unless your the kind of household leaving...

First would be to stop using it or putting any unnecessary strain on it with plugs etc... Is there a massive hole at the back of that socket as it looks like that plasterboard plug has absolutely nothing to go into or ever had. Or maybe its lathe and plaster.... anyway do you have enough space...

Hopefully the plumber will fit you a suitable thermostat to your requirement, so be sure to mention what you want it to do before its purchased so there's no confusion. Also don't be afraid to ask them to show you how to use it, change settings etc.. should you need (take notes) :D.

Unless I missed something you or your plumber is suggesting that its faulty when it sounds like its just lost connection since the batteries died, if this is the case its not faulty and the fix will cost you nothing. The problem you mentioned where the thermostat is going back into auto mode is...

If its 10kw then a 20a switch is not suitable. Report back on what mcb you have anyway but you will need a 45/50a switch based on the 10kw shower. Have you always had this rating shower or have you upgraded/changed at some point?

My reason for explicitly asking was to clarify intention. Some people use different terms for things whereas the person might of meant chase into the wall meaning secure in trunking, cut a hole in plasterboard and feed behind it etc... Also if they really was chasing and plastering, I would of...

While yes it can be complicated things can be learnt. Did the plumber give any reasoning behind his recommendation not to use it? If your happy with replacing something that possibly doesn't need replacing for something simpler then its best knowing what you want from a thermostat BEFORE buying...

Yes you can alter the length of an extension as long as your confident in wiring a plug and stripping the outer insulation so you don't nick the inner insulation. Just make sure to cut the wires to the correct lengths and tighten the terminals etc... Are you burying this into a wall and...

Do you know what kw your shower is? What rating is the mcb/fuse protecting the shower circuit? Ideally the switch should be matched to the mcb (and of course both be suitable for the shower)

What switch have you been using? can you link to the exact on you've bought? Did you replace or an electrician? Can you show us some photos of the melted switch?

I don't understand why it is not recommended, but anyway its possible all that is/was needed was the controller and the thermostat repairing with each other. Can you confirm that you still have the original Salus receiving directly connected to the boiler? And do you have the new/original...

By water was too hot your meaning just from the hot tap? The Salus does not control the temperature of the heating/ hot water that the boiler maintains, this is usually done from the dials on the front of the boiler. By reset of control do you mean that you need to "repair" the salus room...

Could be a seal or more likely the PRD. If its the PRD there's some instructions on these pages if these are the same symptoms as yours: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/aqualisa-quartz-electric-shower-unit.344419/...

No need for 5 wires as those 3 should be enough. If you can test to confirm this before taking my advice below, but based on your existing thermostat wiring and the colour sleeves that have been applied: 1 = live(L) 2 = Neutral (N) Bridge L & Common on the hive 3 = Switched live/call for heat...

There are zoning requirements for electrics in bathrooms. Is your fan an extra low voltage one perhaps? e.g. 12v

If you look at the timer there is a terminal labelled "not used" this is the terminal that isn't used. The neutral is used and required.

what external lights are you going to be fitting? What wattage/type are they? i.e. led, halogen, 400w, 500w etc..?

Take a permanent live, neutral & earth from the existing light fitting down to your timer, then from the timer take a neutral from the neutral terminal, switched live from the Live out and join the earth wires together in either a spare terminal or clamp all to your junction box. Forget about...

That timer needs a neutral which your existing light switch doesn't have. Also the new lights will need a neutral, again you wont have the neutral from the light switch or timer to provide this. You first need to be able to get a neutral and live to the timer and then to the lights. Also don't...