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lol... I wasn't thinking it would take me two days! just that it's not the sort of thing I can be bothered to do when I get in from work.

thanks kitch. appreciate the help. that can be my job for this weekend.

Right, I've found the following 2 diaphragms on a spare parts site; is it the first one i need? BAXI DIAPHRAGM (SMALL) COMBI 80E 105E 248065 3 WAY VALVE COMBI 24, 24HE, 30HE, 80E, 105E, 105HE PERFORMA 28, 30HE BAXI DIAPHRAGM (BIG) COMBI 80E 105E 248066 FOR PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL VALV...

what are the legalities of replacing bits in boilers? i don't want to do anything naughty or dangerous!

Hi guys I seem to have the same problem as described by the original poster. Running the hot water taps won't fire up the boiler. There's no fault lights and the hot water light doesn't light up. Central heating is working as normal. It was all working fine 2 days ago, then it just stopped...

just to let you know... i finally got round to replacing my central heating sensor last night (after months of making do) and everything seems to be working fine now. thanks guys.

There's no reason why not. Are you doing the work yourself? The junction where you go from one to the other would need special attention and as you may have seen on another thread about a garden room on here, some builders will just fudge things. Not quite sure what you mean by splayed...

You could use a parapet detail at the wall/roof junction so the external wall extends up past the roof level and hides the flat roof. All you'd see is a coping on top of the parapet. Drainage would be a bit trickier though as you'd need to form a hole through the parapet with a hopper rather...

Insulation between joists or under joists = cold roof Insulation over joists = warm roof Insulation on top of roof covering = inverted warm roof Thats what my construction books say anyway.

It is preferred to have insulation above the joists to create a warm roof otherwise you need to start ventilating between the roof joists. You'll want a 500 gauge polythene vapour barier to inside of walls and ceiling as already mentioned. You could use duplex plasterboard if you weren't...

should have gone to wickes. :P

yeah but it doesn't matter because the roof will collapse before the rafters have chance to rot!

if thats all you're using it for i'd just look at improving the ventilation and using the dehumidifer. make sure your airbricks are clear. Unblocking your coal chute will increase ventilation too. I still need to do mine... the last owner cemented over it for some reason. you could just...

I'm still using plastic!

Be careful when digging down. Some footings on old terraces don't go very deep and digging down can undermine them.

that did happen to me once but luckily the christmas decorations softened the blast.

is this traditional roof construction or trussed rafters?

i remember when i was cutting the bottom off one my doors, I chopped too much off and then had to glue it back on and try again. It's amazing what you can cover up with polyfilla!

Putting any sort impervious barrier onto the walls is a bad idea from what I understand as the moisture in the walls won't be able to evapourate off the walls, the walls will remain damp and the moisture will tavel upwards in the walls. I believe the proper way to waterproof a cellar is to...

there are a few things I can't tell from the photos, but things that should have been done are: DPM below slab DPC in blockwork miniumim 150mm above ground level DPM to link with DPC Render to stop above DPC so as not to bridge the DPC. The roof doesn't look likes it's been finished off...