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we are getting 9mm sp101 - I know we stagger joints - are we okay to butt up tight or leave small gap

Hi We are putting down some karndean korlok herringbone floor. It is a 1930s timber suspended ground floor, with original 18mm floorboards on joists and dwarf walls construciton. The floor is well ventilated and completely dry. We have made repairs in some areas so is now solid and all screwed...

Excellent help thanks!

In focus

Thanks Luckily we have a big light that will hide the repair hole I will need to cut to get my hand in I think just cut pipe either side of damage, New inserts and new straight connector should be OK Damage was a bit more severe than I though First new January job

Yes my own place Will try and get a photo for your views

I have nicked the side out of some JG speedfit push fit pipe when installing a ceiling light with a drill bit The edge of the drill bit has side glanced the side of the pipe and knicked a bit out, not too much, but just enough that you can just see a tiny bit of the middle layer of the pipe...

So you got the cheapest builder you could, and then knocked lots of items off his price, despite not having full drawings and only provisional prices etc. And now everything is going back up - seems inevitable!

I did insulated PB with soudal plasterboard foam worked a treat 50mm pir board /plasterboard from selco and then skim coated and made such a big difference to retaining heat in the rooms I stripped all rooms back to brick so by the time old plaster came off, only really lost 20mm extra on...

Seeing as it was 5 years ago and 4.7k, what is the realistic prospect of court success etc May not be worth your aggrevation or time or stress and take it as a hard lesson learnt

Surely if he mad the saw cut first before any digging, he would have all the cuts ready to put back in after the excvation and drain install. hey ho hope it gets fixed

In photo 6 your pier next to your alley looks like a banana

looks ugly though poor house has been defaced lol

Could it be am issue higher up and the water is getting in and then tracking down membrane and cannot escape out where the flat roof meets. Is the wet area inside with the flue for example ? Also what's the random rust streak about

And with no gap between driveway and house, have you checked level and water flow is away from the house and not towards it etc.

I wouldnt worry I mean how close to the fence are you actually thinking of parking. Assuming you leave a gap to open a door im sure you be far enough away. Out of interest dont you have to install a front drain along the edge of the pavement? Where I leave you wont get a pavement crossover or...

What animal is that for ?!?

Sounds to me like he wants to do a proper job vs. ripping you off for unneccasary work. Would you be happy if timbers ok but twisted, and you get a bit of a wavy roof, maybe slates dont sit as nice etc?

If you trust the guy and think he will do a good job, let him make a bit of money on it. You can squeeze him now and he will have a mind about the type of customer you are and he will only start to look to cut corners and costs from day 1. Its his mark up take or leave it. Atleast you know if he...

I think everyone could say, that if they could, they would rather pay extra for peace of mind and almost certainty of a good job, than skimp and take a risk, so do your research