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I would leave be to be honest, you didnt pick it up when you bought the property, so no point in having the fight now about it. And you reference a neighbours deeds (is it your direct neighbour?) - have you checked your own deeds/plans to make sure no mistake on their plan etc - that should be...

My 1930s house had the same, plasterboard all ceilings with old flimsy 5mm plasterboard before internal walls went up on floorboards.

surely the tiles will have to be laid left to right starting where they meet the neighbours , so you have no issues where new and old meet You suggest tile are laid right to left (probably suits how they interlock), so working in towards the joint between old and new rather than working out...

If the opening is over 5m wide, I doubt much wall must be left either side if the opening? If the issue is the 50mm or so step, can't you just pack out the rest of the wall below the steel beam 50mm say with insulated plasterboard etc or stud etc to bring wall out to face of steel beam? I...

Makes you wonder if they even dug it to the correct depth

Sister some lengths of batten along the joist to catch edges ?

The question is will he come back to fix it (and do you trust him to come back) if it does leak/fail and when the manufacturer wash their hands of it because it was installed out of specification. If he is reluctant to fix it properly now, he definitely wont fix it properly later once your...

Would anyone be comfortable actually sitting in that cabin? Looks like its about to be swallowed up. I fear you are only delaying the inevitable and best use the money towards the next place?

Makes sense to me then to do the stud walls, the the UFH, then the Screed?

I would defintely go for new ridge tiles if getting a whole new roof. OK maybe he doesnt trust concrete ridge tiles for some reasons but you can still get new clay ridge tiles etc.

Is it not possible to put the bottom channels of stud in before UFH and screed? so you do not risk puncturing UFH pipes when installing channel? For fixing time I would say myself only a day or so after screed has set you can install fixings - stud fixings will be working in shear rather than...

Thanks for the advice I think yes best do properly so will mean digging up the oversite and putting the long radius bend in As we have good condition red tarmac outside and also near front door do not want to run pipe externally

Yes but want to check proposal is feasible and OK in principle . This is part of extension covered by building regs

Personally id leave it be, if you are not touching the windows or doors underneath and just re plastering. But if you are redoing the doors and windows below, nows the time whilst also got the plaster off to swap out the lintel for peace of mind.

I would take judgement based on the scenario - i.e what is it supporting above - just a small amount of brickwork and another big window or opening above? or a big flank of brickwork? Is the lintel just the internal leaf and can you see similar on external leaf? Is it supporting floor load and...

Can anyone confirm plan is ok or not? I currently have a ground floor bathroom which sends waste out the back of the pan and immediately vertically down through the subfloor and into the concrete beneath (red pipe). This pipe then bends and discharges into manhole directly outside the bathroom...

If you are able would it also be good to rotate 90 degrees so the stub is on top of the pipe? I cant imagine its good to have a horizontal stub/old feed that could catch debris etc

Out of interest how does that guttering and fascia get so filthy is your house under a tree

How about cleaning it all in the summer let it dry and try that brick sealer products to make it waterproof

I found this picture pal. I just think they have done it lazy or sloppy with their lead work