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Im just surprised the time spent on your solution was more cost or time effective than replacing the bracket the proper way This looks like the before picture requiring a new bracket to replace a rusty old piece of iron bodged up by a previous owner, in a few years time

Just looks like a bit of a mess to me, something to draw the eye to it.

That bodge is akin to putting duct tape on a car. Why not invest the time and effort to repair properly instead of hodgepodging a bracket like that?

I would think its not an issue if its gable wall and not a party wall. Just think of the damage and mess of blokes climbing in the loft, grinding out blocks to replace etc, put foot though ceiling etc and cover the insulation in dust and mortar for little benefit except visual?? Maybe bit of...

it amazes me on these old houses they spent so much time and detail on the front elevation and details as your house has above the door etc, and then horsed in crap bricks down the side? Maybe materials were more expensive and labour cheaper back in the day but it just makes you wonder why

Would it really be worth taking apart all that hard work and good roofing to try and install what sounds like a bit of a bodge repair to the roof for the sake of the level? I can't see that it would ever be an issue as a lot of flat roof windows are installed parallel to a roof slope

If its a proper scaffold, and your a Diy'er who can climb a ladder and who wont sue your neighbour if you fell off at your own fault, then in this instance I think your safe.

Why not ask your neighbour if you can jump up on their scaffold to take some photos of your own roof and check your gutters etc before it comes down?? Sure they wouldnt mind

Surely in any event you would be covering the cost of the lintels, whether via an uplift in the window install cost or seperately via a builder etc? Surely the best way to resolve would be to get the lintels installed directly yourself and try and get the window firm back in to make good etc...

I am currently planning exact same project - what is the thickness of dot and dab to allow for once squeeze and boards pushed into final position - is 10mm OK? planning for window boards and radiators and the like

is that really where the rats would be coming in???

Is it capped or open at the top??

The main issue I see is the open pile located outside the fence line - what stops anything or anyone public side from dropping something in or kids putting a leg in and cutting there legs open

Bottom driven steel cased piles. For the noise they can use sound blankets but vibration there is little they can do. If its a weekday the best you can do is let them crack on and get it over with. If you complain it will only extend the duration of these works which are probably short term.

Land looks to sit higher especially in this corner?

If your new shallower gutter sits higher and he has no downpipe, then his gutter must fill with some level of water before it outflows into your gutter. This would I imagine reduce the capacity of his gutter somewhat. What is the issue - does the water leak at the joint between the new and old...

I had a look at my photos before the lead and tiles went on and had a feel of the membrane on the dormer just now The catslide roof membrane laps up the side of the dormer and runs under the dormer membrane So hopefully thats not an issue

I believe the detail below might suit my roof profile ? I will ask and it is probably something that can be more easily retrofitted now

Thanks I will discuss with roofer and see what he says. I am guessing the risk is the expansion of the lead forces the GRP to crack? Or hopefully the grp would just debond from lead below to form sliding surface. Regarding the hip-irons I dont believe these are required for dry verge system -...

This is how GRP roof finishes onto tiles via some lead - is that OK?