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Them silly things they supply are rubbish unless you have 1 cable. Technically you are right, without it there will be just single insulation, most cases it would not be an issue and I quess often overlooked. There is sometimes an option to actually earth the fitting and use your wagos Post...

Been to a few sites where joining strips end to end and creating over 5 meters has caused the first connection to fail Most shop shelving utilises seperate tapes and each wired back to one unit as you propose. 24v is good choice and seems more reliable, look on uk commercial led sites they...

If you know where them 2 cables go, you MAY be able to make your middle switch 2 way by running a 3 core from that end polnt to a new 2 way switch and repurposing one of those 2 cores as strappers

Without smashing them open, was there actually any important bits within the tall skinny bit

Without seing how the old one was connected then hard to tell. However the module you have purchased is an odd choice nowadays with most lamps available now being led

Not sure where your seing them colours. The light in your pic has Brown switch live connection Blue neutral Green/ yellow earth Your house has It appears One Red switch live Two Black neutrals And some green or g/y earthwires

Is this a flat or council premises, if so it may be a metal box cast into the ceiling structure, the cables would be in metal conduit, if so don't pull them. There's likely one red switch live and two black Neutrals and NO permanent live. The solid green is the earth

are they insulated?

Ok Message me and will sort something

Most would mount a squarish box adjacent, I prefer plain sided boxes and drill own holes, though most use 3 x 3 threaded wiska 306 boxes but I think there ugly with all the unused outlets. There's also a smaller 206 box Often you can visibly loose them behind the fitting. Both boxes have...

Hi @JohnD I now have a small stash of at least ten of these now, if you still want them let me know

@npaisnel There's a more up to date post on this Thread 'Mains indicator LEDs' https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/mains-indicator-leds.633281/

@theflyingpig From your initial post, it appears you intended to push the join back within the wall. How would that conform. @trojanhawrs I suggested terminating it within the base of the enclosure, which is the way a vast majority of wall mounted fittings are mounted. The fitting becomes the...

It appears ample room if you strip the grey and the white sheathing more

Plate switches always have current ratings and are rated at 6a or 10a and sometimes 20a, ideally they should be rated to the mcb size, but as most domestic lighting circuits are 6 amp then by default any switch is suitable. In past days you derated a switch for certain types of load, but...

Most dimmer modules are removable, so even if you got a 85 x 85 one the module could likely be undone and refitted to your existing front plate. Bare in mind what lamps your dimming as that affects the rating you need. Your old dimmer has minimum load of 60 watt, if you are dimming less or...

Apparently screwix do varilight and the metal grid looks the same, yours is actually upside down

Don't think varilight make actual grid switches, the white adapters are for different makes of grid, to allow fitting there own varilight dimmer, you would need to establish what make grid the second ones actually for.

Switches with an edge pattern are usually larger, this is so the pattern is continues around the edge without the fixing screws intruding the pattern. It was more common with metal switches with a roped edge that became popular in the 80's

Crabtree ones screw in and mk are more rounded so it's not them. What's the code on the metal grid, that could help, failing that look at pics of a varilight dimmer as it shows 7 popular profiles one may match yours and lead to the make.