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If there long ferrules suppose you can wrap them round a bit According to regs though , ferrules are only needed for certain types of terminals, assuming this don't Include the ring terminal, is there any reason not to cut them off.

One is the inverter and ones the ballast, they work together, In Normal mode the ballast runs both tubes from its own switched supply. However the 240 v switched supply to the ballast first goes via N/C contacts on the inverter, that open on loss of the permanent feed at the inverter...

What's different? The main thing to ensure is 1 2 and 3 are connected to the same tube and 4 5 and 6 to the other tube

Mk tough plugs use wrap round terminals rather than holes and some people struggle with them, they are good sturdy plugs though

Should have

It's too unclear to see what you have actually done with the white wires

may be worth looking in regs under labels and identification, some labels have to be certain format, if there is one relevant , then that would denote the minimum size cover

Maybe just Decklights

When the spurs are on the end they will form a vertical safe zone, the bottom 700mm or so is likely surface behind units so exempt from being in safe zones

On a ceiling in a restaurant

Some are actually plumbed in with hot water and just have a fan, the smaller electric ones have a total of 3kw internal elements, 3 phase jobbies can be 9kw or more. The theory I believe is as they say it forms a curtain, in reality I think it's a large expense for little reward

10mm x 1mm pitch threads are commonly used for lighting so likely unscrews, however cutting and rethreading the square bar may not be easy. Round lighting threaded 10mm bars are available in many options , if that's a suitable option

G9 are mains voltage

A small plastic connecter chocblock thingy may fit onto that hook thing

Possibly the council hsve now put an led bulb in, if it was a normal bulb before, it may not be designed to work with a led bulb @Andrave2 You should have started a new post really

The 2 core red is the supply to the switch that you say is the 1 gang Hall light, just locate that 2 core red at the actual hall light fitting. That's the main wire you need to test, nothing else. This was established ages ago

That light is where the supply to the switches comes from, post a pic of that

Looks OK, as previously asked does the one way switch (left one with 2 holes in use) do anything on the other 2 gang switch

Surely any bathroom light with a sensor would do, just tap into the wire between the sensor and the driver

I done a pub swingsign about 30 years ago with 1.5 yellow artic flex on a 10 metre catenery. I still drive past it, the cables now black from London traffic and most hangers have broke or bunched up and the flex is sagging, but still hanging in there, though not sure if the lights still...