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Ah, yes. Oh well, the options are cheap / ugly or expensive / pretty. As is often the case, can't have both :lol:

What is wrong with the first one you posted? It looks nice, is configurable between two minutes and two hours, and is rated at 16A which is way more than you need for your 1.2kW heater.

Not one piece of the information you provided in your second post was in the first post... The implication was that you'd built a log cabin and run a cable to it. I was trying to help, but am more than happy not to bother...! That cable size over that distance, and with lighting circuits...

Couple of observations:- 1) Why is there an RCD at the source? 2) You should have engaged an electrician before you started - you're now expecting someone to sign off the work you did (burying the SWA) when they have no idea whether or not you did it properly.

Did you even look at the pictures?

BT won't talk to you because you have no contract with them. What you have done is fine. Put some filler over it and move on! You are worrying about nothing.

OK. Flip this around. You've bought a house that previously had VM cable services installed, but you as the new homeowner want to go down the BT/Sky route. What are you supposed to do with all the old VM infrastructure? Coax cables, splitters, faceplates and so on? Absolutely whatever...

Who cares? It's not the original posters' problem. He has no contract with BT/OpenReach for any service and so can do what he likes.

Yes, but VM do not use any BT infrastructure in cabled areas. So I buy a house and have VM install their cable services (including voice line over their own copper), and there's an old OpenReach box on the wall that the previous occupant had installed. Are you seriously suggesting that I...

If the original poster lives in a 'cabled' area, then the BT NTE will definitely be redundant. It's in his own house, he can do whatever he wants with it!

One other thing you could try. Turn off all your other breakers (leave the big main switch on). Now try and turn on the RCD. If it stays on this time, turn your other breakers back on one at a time. To be honest, it sounds like your RCD is fried though - you'll need an electrician.

Unplugging your strimmer... Which I'm sure you have done!

Sometimes you need to push the switch all the way off before you can then switch it back on. Cutting through your hedge trimmer cable shouldn't have permanently damaged anything, but it's not impossible that it did.

For once I feel sorry for BAS...

You could just stop turning it off every night... It's a bit of an odd thing to do!

No idea... Landfill? :twisted: Or you could join them all up in series and use them to blow stuff up?

Do a google search for STC-1000 - many fishkeepers use them for aquarium control. Sub £20, has remote probe and separate heat / cool contacts. Hysteresis is adjustable

My guess would be an audio-visual hire company where it's generally considered good practice to put new batteries in radio mics before each performance.

I suppose if the thermostat is elsewhere in the oven cavity, and the fan isn't running, the element itself could get hotter and hotter - possibly beyond it's design parameters? It's not that the fan is there to cool the element, but it is certainly there to move the heat from within the...

Just playing devils advocate here, but if the choc-blocks are above the light fitting, are they not inherently only accessible with a tool?