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Personally, I'd forget about trying any self-diagnosis and call the electrician back who installed it six weeks ago!

I presume you are talking about the varilight IQ electronic touch dimmer? They make lots of different products... If so, at the switch you no longer need, disconnect C At the location you are installing the varilight dimmer, ignore the yellow wire and connect your dimmer to the remaining...

You don't need 9W LEDs Take a look at these

Do you know why? It seems - at face value - to be nuts...

The three wires that PBoD circled in the photo were two from the live loop, and the switched live out to the lampholder. If the Live/Switched live had been swapped over, then the instructions to join the three red wires was then correct, but the photo was still wrong. In either case...

Confused to say the least, but glad you got it working!

Sure - I appreciate that, but it still makes putting the three circled wires into a block wrong - it's the middle three that would need to be joined - regardless of what colour they are.

No, it's the three wires in the middle that need to go into the block (one black, two red). Forget about the insulation tape as well - it serves no purpose and just makes everything sticky...

Why do you need a rose at all, or indeed a junction box? For what you're proposing, just run a supply feed to the light switch, and a load feed out to the light fitting. Put the neutrals in a block inside the switch backbox.

Only with electronic touch dimmers such as the IQ Touch ones here. Basically, you connect one 'Master' and as many 'Slave' dimmers as you like and just wire them all in parallel.

How heavy are the fittings? Personally, I'd just ditch the crappy roses that came supplied with them and wire directly into your existing ones. Perhaps you could retain the new roses as a decorative trim over the top of your old ones if they are big enough?

They are not genuine ones

We've both ended up using the same setting, but I don't have any overshoot. Is it worth tinkering with your heat curve?

The confusion isn't helped by the manual. Looks like they renamed the menu option on the controller but didn't update the manual:- None: Thermostatic control: The built-in temperature sensor measures the current room temperature in the reference room. This value is compared with the...

Actually, I've got mine set to Thermostatic mode, not modulating. I think they both do the same (in terms of the modulation), but it's the thermostatic mode that actually fully shuts the boiler down as well.

Mine's an 831 - it definitely fully shuts down. Heat curve is set to 2.1.

The 430 and the 470 must differ then - I've got mine set to modulating mode and don't get any overshoot at all. As the temperature gets close to the set point, the boiler output gradually ramps down and eventually shuts off.

No - you can only set day and setback temperatures. In practice this has not been any problem at all for me, and the combination of the weather compensator and seemingly much more clever thermostat has yielded a much more stable temperature in my house.

The degrees figure relates to the beam width, not the temperature :)

The other thing you could do is change the lamps. I'm pretty sure the ones you have there are dichroic - if you hold them up to the light, are they translucent? If you replace the lamps with aluminium reflector ones such as these, then much more of the heat will be directed downwards. The...