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You can get brand new heat-only boilers and they will have a PCB in them. It is also usual on newer boilers to connect the pump to the boiler so the boiler controls the pump overrun. There's nothing particularly odd about this.

They do a wireless version - the 392f.

They behave the same way as a radiator without a TRV - they are either off or on. They have a thermostat inside which switches the fan on when the water is at a certain temperature, but they don't do any ambient monitoring. Best way to use them would be on a separate zone controlled by a...

You should be able to use the grey wire as a neutral (sleeved blue). You'll need to check how it's connected at the other end though.

You should be able to use the grey wire as a neutral (sleeved blue). You'll need to check how it's connected at the other end though.

Are you sure it is the LED which is faulty and not the driver?

How did you get three quotes in five hours?

Have a look at the Honeywell CM907. It's a very flexible unit which you'll be able to install in about 15 minutes. Basically, it just replaces your existing wall thermostat, and you then leave the old controller on the boiler set permanently on.

Hmm... It's PTS who haven't delivered mine! I'll call them tomorrow. I'll reserve judgement on the rest of your comments until I've had a play, but it certainly does sound excessively complicated. The simulators are online for the 470 if anyone wants to have a play. Still no English manual...

Thanks for the update. Can you tell me which distributor that was please?

That was my thread - no-one has really confirmed what's going on yet. Presumably some distributors have still got stock of the 430, just the two I tried didn't!

If you install the VRC430 into the boiler, then you really should use the remote thermostat (VR 81). Why not just put the VRC430 in the house?

That's interesting... I'm sure I could probably locate a 430 if I hunted around, but the 470 is also very appealing, but not if winter will have been and gone before it materialises. Grr... Don't know what to do!

Strange for a 'merican to use celcius and not fahrenheit...

Hi Earlier this week, I ordered a VRC 430 to partner a Vaillant 831 combi. When I got the delivery note, I noticed that the 430 had been replaced with a 470 (20108130) but that it was out of stock. The 470 is a lovely looking unit with a much improved graphical interface and a few extra...

You can get more powerful lamps for Par64 fittings. Par 64 lamps are a good bit more expensive than 56's though. You'll more than double the cost.

You can get a Par 56 can for about a tenner, and a lamp for about another tenner. Surely £20 isn't too much? Try here It's not worth messing around when you can do it properly for not much more than you're planning on spending.

Practically speaking, that's no different to a spur. It's still 2.5mm cable on a 32A MCB which ever way you do it.

They fall into three camps (I only know about this 'cause I fitted one for my other half last week!). 1) Battery only (cat gets locked out or flap fails to open mode when battery runs out) 2) Mains only (as above if power fails) 3) Mains with battery backup (sensible option!) For...

Have you thought about just drilling a small hole and having the PSU for your cat flap in the kitchen, and run the ELV cable through the wall. It would be a lot less hassle.