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Deleted ramblings about coolfit/dichroic after I re-read the but about them being GU10...

If the lamps are dimmable and the yellow wire is available at both the intermediate switches, you could install 1 x Varilight Master and 3 x Varilight Slave units. Just connect all three wires at all four locations and isolate one of the live supplies at the fitting.

Is there an echo in here? What did your repost add to that which BAS already posted? I already acknowledged my mistake.

Oops :oops:

It doesn't sound to me like there are any wires missing. This could just be the last fitting on the cable. Put the two reds into a terminal block. Put the black wire into the neutral terminal on the light fitting. Put the black with red tape into the live terminal on the light fitting.

You will get lots of other comments shortly about the suitability of downlighters, but I'll answer your specific question. ELV lamps with transformers will give you a better quality of light and much longer life than mains voltage halogens. Whether you want to be putting them in every room...

I still want to know why the electrician was going to put SWA in a duct in the first place?

I would have thought the simplest and cheapest solution would in fact be a computer UPS? I know you said you didn't want one, but if you look into the cost and compare it with the hassle of a home-brew solution, I expect you'll find it's not worth it...

Thanks. I'll have a go at a small area and see what happens. Wish I'd never started this now!

That is quite possible, yes. What's the most straightforward remedy?

Hi I painted my hallway about four years ago in white emulsion. It was beginning to look a bit grotty so I decided to repaint it this weekend. The new paint (Dulux pure brilliant white matt) has caused the old paintwork to bubble up and fall off revealing the original underlying paintwork...

I meant the original poster, not you! I too am flabbergasted!

There's nothing wrong with short lengths of 0.75mm flex on a circuit protected by a 5A MCB.

[/url] Must be a troll, surely?

1mm will be fine

If your extractor has a timer, you'll need three core + earth.

I'm not sure why I'm bothering to reply as you'll almost certainly be rude, but here goes. The point that you are missing and which JohnW2 tried to explain but you ignored is this:- Your local authority can, and will charge you a hell of a lot more for inspecting your work than I think you...

It's ±2400V so 4800V peak to peak. I expect the transformers are effectively 1:1 current transformers and so will only have a couple of turns on the primary.

Have a look at the last 15 slides or so in this presentation to see the source equipment

That's the fault of the installer, not the downlights!