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Sorry but you're wrong. Simple as that. You're not saying it's at serious risk of fire and that it should be replaced you are simply stating that you have observed it isn't conforming with the latest regs (if you so wish to make that observation official on the report) It's not only about...

BS 7671:2008 ammendement 3 page 432. Inspection schedule - outcomes> use codes above and provide additional comments where appropriate - C1, C2, C3, FI, N/V, LIM & N/A. So you could of course make an observation that the CU doesn't conform to the latest enclosure fire ratings (421.1.2) and...

Don't buy cheap tack. Simple as. £48 for a decent PIR is reasonable. Don't ever forget that "the bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low prices is forgotten" Nothing could be more accurate especially if the said item happens to burn your house down.

Well, at least he didn't mention plug tops....

...Still waiting to find out what exactly gave the OP his shock on the non conductive plastic switch!

Very unlikely but not impossible I agree. However, how else are we supposed to join cables for example if a cable has been drilled through and it's not practical to replace the entire cable? If installed correctly and the cables are the correct size for the entry and grip then it would be very...

Sorry, as I understood it, you were already planning to bury them in the wall. If not then surface mount boxes with Din rail terminals will be ok. If you did want to bury them in the wall it's perfectly acceptable if you use "maintenance free" junction boxes...

Sounds a bit Heath Robinson - the junction boxes and terminations will need to be maintenance free if buried in the wall and it sounds like you want to use normal terminal (din rail mounted) blocks in a normal electrical junction box.

What would happen if the heater went short circuit?

I can see your point though. Personally I would hate to code 2 it and then leave the premises and find out that a couple of hours later it set fire to the building and somebody was trapped and died because it went faulty and that I knowingly said it wasn't immediate danger and that I knew the...

I don't think so, because you cannot say at what time an appliance or piece of equipment will (or if) become faulty and so therefore for me it's still a 1. If you could define at what points or under what conditions it becomes faulty then I would agree that it's code 2

For me it's a code one fault. The installation does not have adequate protection and as you have already pointed out - the EFLI is contrary to the permitted values and will mean the breaker cannot function as intended. There is an immediate risk of danger and injury (fire) if the element becomes...

Is this really a trick question?

Easy way to boil the right amount if the gauge isn't accurate is to fill your cup to the required level and pour it into the kettle, which is what I do. You already have the cup out.... Maybe give just a tad extra to compensate for the small amount of water which you can't drain out of the...

Should have made that clear in my initial posting

I was more aiming towards the fact he had used chocolate blocks to join one half of the ring final in a 1 metre length between the CU and first socket instead of just going CU to socket (less work as cables currently exposed before plastering refinish and no need for the extra surface mount back...

It's not just home owners who do this kind of stuff mate some registered electricians do this and worse. Just fixed some wiring at my mothers home where a registered electrician joined a new 1 metre length of cable between the consumer unit and first socket on the ring final in a socket back...

Your comments practically sum up smart meters as well Eric. "Get Gaz and Leccy under control - know how much you're using" Smart meter or no smart meter - unless you turn things off you're going to use the "Gaz" and "Leccy" Your meters already tell you how much you're using if you have just...

Just to further the detail - the frontage hinges down and then the lamp holder pulls out on a long trailing lead which comes from a deck box at the side of the pool. To remove the lamp you then have to remove a lense and gasket to reveal the lamp itself. Seems safe providing the fitting itself...

As in the title. Im having some work done on some underwater lamp fittings and can't find much info out about this standard. Lights are currently 12 volt SELV contained in a water tight fitting but accessed from the front by means of 4 screws and a hinge down lid. Not sure if these are still...