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Judging by the first pic it looks like a mess of wiring has been shoved in behind the box, obviously the wrong way to do it. That is probably where the CPCs will be. Needs an electrician to sort it out really, dealing with busy light switch wiring can be difficult without experience.

That's definitely a sensible thought, and if you were installing a flex for the hob yourself you may well go for something larger than 2.5, but the flex the manufacturer installs is rated for the maximum power draw of the appliance, now I know 6.5kw is just over the rating for 2.5mm flex...

The MCB is there to protect the circuit cable (your 6mm t&e) not the appliance, the 2.5 flex on the oven and hob can be considered part of the appliance since it is pre installed by the manufacturer. They are also fixed loads, so cannot pull anymore power than their rating. Any fault on the 2.5...

I doubt you will find that sold, far easier to buy a new integrated unit such as this one: https://www.downlights.co.uk/led-triangle-under-cabinet-light-12v-leyton.html#led-triangle-under-cabinet-light-12v-4000k

As you mention yourself a lot of the time damp/humidity only comes from peoples daily activities, cooking, showering, drying clothes etc. If a property has rooms on the smaller side and poor or no ventilation, this will build up very quickly, so the only real solution is to create ventilation...

Thats a fair point but I would imagine a powerful inline unit would be more than sufficient. The way I see it unless the two fans have a very similar length of ducting to the Y point, (assuming they have the same airflow l/s in the first place) one will overpower the other and cause problems...

If both are running they will both be less effective than with only one running, you can only get a certain volume of air through a 100mm vent hole (assuming the roof vent is a 100mm vent)! Also I would imagine the fan motors would be stressed more as they effectively would have a restriction in...

If you're getting bad condensation and humidity issues a longer term solution is putting in a PIV (positive input ventilation) unit. These normally sit in a loft where they draw air from the space, filter it and blow a constant stream of air into the house. The idea is this creates positive...

Google search 'triangular led under cabinet lighting', lots of options out there, just be careful to match the 12vdc voltage and the colour temperature to the others

While a fault with the actual socket is unlikely they do occur so don't discount the possibility, I had one a while ago that internally shorted L&N when switching it off. If your socket had an internal fault that shorted L to E when switched, it is possible the user would feel a shock before the...

In the end I've just secured the drivers in place and clipped cables well either side, and they're ferruled up, screwed in nice and tight, not going anywhere. The drivers are from a well known national wholesaler, I was disappointed to see they have no cable grips on the ELV side but they appear...

Hi all, I've got some LED drivers for LED strip that I'm planning on putting under kitchen cabinets, both branded Saxby lighting, which I thought is fairly reputable. The drivers will go on top of the cabinets, fairly standard installation. The problem is the LED drivers don't have any form...

Agreed. Not my doing I will add! Just wanted it working for now and when the house gets fully gutted and redone in 2 or so years the plumbing will be completely started again from scratch.

Red circles show my new AAVs and the manual air vent. The higher AAV is on a high point return leg that covers all the rads but not the cylinder. The lower AAV is on a high point flow on a flow leg covering 4 rads, was hoping there would be enough flow through these to look after any stuck air...

Just an update, managed to finally get it working today, installed 2 AAVs on pipework where it looked like air could collect, there is also a manual bleed valve as well nearby. Still no luck with filling the system conventionally via the F&E tank, so again I back fed mains water through the...

Sounds like a sensible plan was thinking a little distance after the pump and before the zone valves might be appropriate for one. Second one perhaps on the return but before or after the bypass valve connection point?

Cheers, I had done that so in theory water should have been able to flow around the system

It's been temperamental from day 1 since I've owned it, there was usually 1 rad (it varied between a couple of them) that wouldn't get warm, but sometimes they all would. We knew there was air problems due to constant gurgling in pipes and often the boiler would lock out due to air. Sometimes...

Will get pics tomorrow, btw the plumbing in general is an absolute mess and will be completely renewed in some years. However think it is 'correct' Will try and check for blockages tomorrow as well, the pump impellor manually spins easily and also spins electrically (can hear and feel it) it's...