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I was just going to say the VENT pipe MUST be above water level, but also that the cylinder coil is probably passing water.

I think their 'hose' is our 'pipe'... well I do hope so.

First thing is to check the charge in the expansion vessel if you can... or get someone who is qualified to do so for you. I bet it has either lost its charge or the diaphragm is broken.

Why did you pay for an incomplete job?

I also note you have a mixture of speedfit fittings on hep2o pipe. I never knowingly mix brands but it is harder now that speedfit and hep are white and the markings are not always visible in restricted areas.

Adidas and Puma were two companies run by two brothers in competition... Hansgrohe and Grohe were a father and son in competition... ...it must be a German thing.

The "Water" could have included a lot of muck that could have blocked the bronze filter at the back of the nozzle. Change the nozzle. Do yu have a pressure gauge to accurately measure the oil pressure? If the pressure falls away it could indicate further blockage in an in-line filter farther...

I don't think many Plumbers or Heating Engineers would know that...

Air in radiators would not make the boiler lock out!

Has the oil pressure and CO2 level been set correctly with a Flue Gas Analyser? Is the oil pressure steady? Is the electrode gap the correct one and is the transformer unwarped/cracked. Are the electrodes clean? Is the photocell clean? Is the fan motor running smoothly?

Was the shower specified before the pipes were put in place? If not then it could be your fault for buying the wrong shower valve...

Have a stopcock then a lever valve if you want to be able to control the flow accurately and shut it off quickly.

Do you have mains drainage or a sceptic tank? Condensate waste should go into a sceptic tank.

A choice of 70W or 90 W single or double ended. Save mucking about with bearings... buy a new motor. Fairly easy to change and see how easily the oil pump shaft turns when you marry to two together.

Ideally you should get a CD10 from the Installer that fitted the boiler and a CD11 from the person who Commissioned it. Sadly I come across boilers that have no paperwork and are unregistered with OFTEC quite frequently. Often 'The Builder Did It' sends alarm bells ringing.

...that's 50°F by the way.

I would leave it on Constant Heating and set the thermostat to 10°C. Are there any stipulations in the house insurance?

On a Grant boiler the PRV opens at 2.5 bar.

Check it's not the heat-exchanger on your combi that is letting the water temperature drop off after a minute.

Maybe if you asked it nicely the water will wait in the pipe until you have fitted the tees in place.