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USB On The Go!!! can this be the ideal solution I was looking for? It's early days as I'm right now finding out - but this seems promising http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go

I see...a teeny weeny computer which does all the basics (including handshake) - not ideal (I'm sure there is a neater solution) but worth trying...I've set my eyes on a few ebay offers and maybe I'll get a very cheap one...it might work. Put a raspberry between the usb battery pack and the USB...

this unit costs £199 new....surely it isn't just a bunch of pre-amps, switches and potentiometers...I've just opened and I can see many microchips including a bigger one "Boss" with 30 odd connections on each of the 4 sides - that looks processing stuff to me - no need for a PC or laptop - when...

yep...I'd like to use it while busking - plugging a dynamic balanced microphone (so no phantom 48v is necessary), another stereo binaural set of mics into the line in (this works because there is a small preamp boosting the signal) and then connect the digital output from the Edirol to a...

As I've mentioned: I've used one of those trendy usb battery pack with no luck - the one I have has 2 options: 500ma and 1a...it works fine with many usb power-able devices like iPod a Samsung smartphone and a minidisc too but plug this types of battery into an usb type B and it won't give any...

Many modern usb audio interfaces (basically these are external soundcards) are designed to be connected directly to a PC or a laptop for both data and power. Now, I have an Edirol ua-4FX which I'd like to use with a few 9v batteries or an usb battery pack - without the need for a laptop or a...

Found out the reason of those elbows which seems to be a standard in shower traps (McAlpine and Geberit for example). These angled pipe helps adjusting the fall so that the pipe can be pointed exactly at a specific target - we just need to rotate the elbow... Other waste/traps use a flexible...

wow...BAS, it took you so long to reply I worried if you were still around - still nothing useful in your messages (as usual).

as usual...here come the personified grumpiness Bah Umbagh "get a leccy you moron!!!" BAS...I can't remember ever having read any of your messages giving something useful to any member (not just me) - you are just trilled by the sake of argumentation - (something to do with old age I guess)...

Thanks a lot for your useful feedback - as you can see I was in the right direction and just looking for a confirmation....no keen on choc-blocks - the metal box would do. I've realized about the 2005 part P changes only after starting some electrical jobs (all involving the new bathroom) - I...

what are metal boxes for then? Isn't that clear? (shall I pay to get a good answer from ya?). Then, what are forum for then? Should we get a web engine specifically designed for the leccy branch to answer commoners' questions? - maybe automatic answers like: "get a good leccy" cos' as usual I...

I'm about to complete an electric box inside a bathroom where to fix the RCD unit and the thermostat linked to the UFH. The UFH cable comes with a earth core - but the thermostat doesn't have any earth connector....shall I use a metal box to cover that function? Until now, as a temporary move...

having read this from another post: "Hep Vo's are carp when installed horizontally. Esp on showers where flow rate is low...." I'm glad to know I'm going in the right direction with the old trusty McAlpine (or Geberit or similar). Thanks god for forums and so many useful posts...

I didn't know about these HEPvO - not that pricey too - I wished I'd spent the money on one of these in the first place (we learn the hard and costly ways sometimes). Still, I guess there are some negative points which will come up in due time? E.g. how do these cope with clogging/hair etc...

[/url] This is a similar model: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-2013-STEAM-SHOWER-CUBICLE-ENCLOSURE-BATH-CABIN-1500mm-x-850mm-Radio-2305-/330895631666?pt=UK_Bathroom_Mats_Rugs&hash=item4d0aeaa532 now; the white enclosure at the bottom represent the volume which can be filled with water =...

no worries....I was expecting this kind of replies - this is a shower cubicle with steam and other gizmos + a 50cm deep "shower" tray which cover also the function of a mini bath. It would be a pity to lose such functionality just because I can't find a proper shower trap fitted with a pop up...

The last thing one need is to install the wrong waste/trap under the shower cubicle for then realizing the fall isn't adequate and the trap isn't sealing properly ....not too mention having to work in a confined space to rectify such problems (or dismantle the shower cubicle). So, I'm taking no...

I get your point.... The reason I managed to disjointing a few pipes was because I used the wrong pipes (push fit pipes are smaller and made of PP which can't be glued - learning the hard way...) so, there's plenty of dried glue which won't allow to re use these fittings. Solvent weld piping...

ok....I reformulate the question this way: is there a way to chemically remove solvent cement residue from pipes? Of course there is a mechanical way which involves scraping and sanding but maybe there are some other ways...

Is there a way to remove dried glue from solvent pipes? So that these can be cleaned and re-used.