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First what is tripping second how are you testing, insulation tester, RCD tester, and clamp-on ammeter can all help, I had the RCBO trip on front of house ring final, I went all around house unplugging things, and on unplugging dishwasher RCBO stopped tripping, just to be sure, I tested...

I have read back again, but can't find out what you mean by modules. I don't have an OpenTherm boiler, so it does not worry me, I do remember however looking at it, and it seemed there was one thermostat type that worked on a master/slave system, so one thermostat connects to boiler OpenTherm...

I got this thermostat for late mother's house, over time it got worse and worse, with me moving it closer and closer to the base. She also had this one, and when I started to read instructions, it had a built-in safety feature, and should it not get a signal from the thermostat every half hour...

I have done the same, tested, and it showed A1, swapped and problem sorted. My original tester did not have a ramp test, the new one does, and also the new clamp-on will measure down to 1 mA. So in the past did not really know how close to the wind I was sailing. Using the ½ test, and not...

Melting well, no real need to worry, Clearly PV2 is at the top, snow is reducing output, surprised I have any. 9:45 am.

Nothing, snow on the satellite dish, so it's YouTube tonight.

Brown and Grey to 3 and 5 and an independent supply to 1 and 2 would work. But that means getting an independent supply.

I was getting worried, wife went out, and found she had gone to North Wales, and wondered if she would get back in time. But 5 pm just rain, and I thought they had got it wrong. But a look out of the window, only got back just in time.

Need to find out. 1) If the control is low voltage (230 volts AC) or extra low voltage. 2) If low voltage, then if the unconnected wire is a neutral. The Meross thermostat needs 230 volts to power it, the old Danfoss RNT230 did not, so you need to find out if easy to get that 230 volts supply...

One would normally have one FCU at the origin with 13 amp fuse, and one in the shed switched with 3 amp fuse for the lights. It does however depend on how far around the ring final, from the centre no problem, but getting near either end, and it could with other things on the ring final cause an...

Yes, seen too many VRLA (valve regulated lead acid) overcharged, specially with stair lifts, 13.6 is ample when no load in fact more like 13.4 volt, for something like emergency lights and alarm systems, where the battery is only a back-up. With the stair lift, every time it is used it...

I did not want you to lay concrete, then realise it should have an earth mat below it, since you seem to have worked out that bit, I would likely be looking at something like a star/delta contactor to swap between sauna and shower. At my house, I may need a current transformer and some better...

It does have an impressive lumen per watt, and looks as if it lights in nearly all directions, ⁣but as one looks at the pictures it has the same problem as many LED bulbs, it does not put out any light towards the base. They do make a clear version Seems to be just a tad overpriced.

Down to 39% charged at the moment, missy dull day here in Wales. Worried me when I saw your charges with Agile, checked Go, and still 31.94p/kWh peak, this is not the smart Go, just standard. It was the problem knowing when to charge/discharge batteries that made me move to "Go", I note my...

Outside electrics may require earth mats, rods, etc. It is not simple, I would say get an electrician to visit and advise.

We have some odd names for consumer units, it seems high integrity means it has three neutral bars, and you can have two RCD's and some RCBO's but depends on what type of consumer unit has been fitted. There is nothing to stop swapping the RCD for an isolator and fitting RCBO to just one side...

I do see the problem, I have three double socket outlets for items used outside but there is not enough room under the lid to fit a smart socket adaptor or power pack so two plug in inside the house, so I can fit timers, etc. and a lot of my outside lights use smart bulbs. We see ideas that do...

We have types AC, A, F, C, S etc, also some are single direction, and some dual direction, and we also have stand alone RCD's and RCD's built into the MCB (RCBO) and changing the design and using type A RCBO's may help. I got RCBO clearly marked type C on the packet, but after they were...

Are you sure, there are some types of property which need an EICR, but the new English law did not cover Wales.

Lumen is not that important, what is important is enough light to do the task. So more down to the direction the light is emitted at and what will reflect, and diffuse the light. To get enough light, I have used these, in a standard lamp up lighter, to get the amount and spread required. I...