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If we're talking about the same Baxi 50HE Plus (??!!), it's a heat-only boiler with NOTHING inside apart from the burner-related bits. No pump, no expansion vessel and no filling loop. Since this boiler can be fitted on open-vented heating systems, there may be no filling loop, and you'll find...

A note for ANYONE considering using an angle-grinder on cast-iron. Yup - it cuts it OK. BUT it makes lots of highly-reactive iron dust which falls down onto anything below. As soon as whatever is there gets wet (rain, ...) the iron turns to rust and stains like the Devil. White paintwork on...

There IS something a bit odd about the setup. Doitall is right about the other branch above the flue position without the benefit of any venting and capable of peeing all over the lower floors if the main pipe gets blocked. But there seem to be further floors higher up. How are their wastes...

Roughly how long did your system run with the new pump and the air problem? Unfortunately, water-lubricated bearings wear VERY quickly when there's too little water around them! Your 'new' pump may have had equivalent of several years-worth of wear in a few days!

I think if the OP is concerned about tiling around the waste pipe, the position (height) of the basin is pretty-much already 'cast in stone'. :D

...to prevent water seals in basins, WCs etc. being drawn by the passage of solids down the 'long drops' outside! ISTR it was LCC regs that required these, maybe as a way of avoiding larger diameter soil stacks on multi-storey blocks.

If you go for a good (ie. more expensive) boiler such as Atag, you can run the stainless steel flue and polythene inlet of the twin flue system up the outside wall as high as you like! BUT flues for cheaper boilers and most concentric flue systems are usually not qualified for use exposed to...

Before you hit Reset again, NOTE CAREFULLY which lights on the front panel are On, Off and flashing. The various combinations indicate what the problem is! Also, because of the large number of different Baxi combis including the number '80' in the name, please tell us the GC number of the...

Hmmmm, as I said before Nothing much has changed!

The other reason for the minimum height aboveground is to avoid debris on the ground blowing into the inlet. (Plume kits ONLY carry the outlet). Tell us what boiler it is!

IF (and only if) your boiler manufacturer offers a plume kit for your particular boiler, that seems the best option, from your description. The point of having a flue terminal or plume-discharge high up is to avoid affecting something or someone. As a rule of thumb, discharge above...

RT(f)OP!! The problem is that the combined height of trap + popup waste is only just covered by the half-ped. So the (telescopic) trap can't be moved DOWN and the outlet from it can't be moved UP (to match the pipe in the wall) because of the height of the popup waste. And moving the trap...

The pipework which supplies your new rads must be large enough. As a rule of thumb, 15mm can only supply up to 2 large rads or 3 small ones. Above that (in a domestic setup) you need to go to 22mm pipes. Not clear yet what new connections will need to be made in your situation.

At that price, you probably are getting what you paid for! Admittedly, bathroom brassware is often over-priced but this seems 'too good to be true'. Be very sure that it has non-return valves on the hot and cold - if not, you MUST put in external ones. Also, given that it's the embedded...

No - it's done according to the heat-loss for the whole house. Relatively simple to work out, based on construction, room size, external / internal walls, glazing type, insulation,..... But in the real world.... Unless the house is very large already and / or the boiler is on its Last Legs...

I'd already discounted the Viessmann 333 because it probably stands too tall to fit the space used for a Powermax and because I've only ever heard of only 60/100 concentric fluing being available for the smaller 333 models. BUT it does appear that there IS polypropylene twin fluing...

At that age and where the exact type of valve is uncertain, you'd probably be best advised to change the whole thing. If you did actually find a replacement head, the valve body would probably take revenge by leaking the next month! Make sure before you start that the valve type you need is...

If the 'commissioning card' says 'Benchmark' on it, there should be a box for gas working pressure. If there's nothing in the box, it's not filled in properly! If it says '20' and the boiler is 'struggling' because of lack of gas pressure, the 20 is a lie! Either way, your initial issue...

Presumably you need the heatstore, DHW and CH capabilities of the Powermax? What about Gledhill Gulfstream? or another Powermax? (!!) (You'll definitely have to re-do the fluing. The twin-flue that's there will DEFINITELY NOT be re-usable with a condensing boiler. There's also some...

Classic case of pottery makers not considering carefully what needed to be covered by their artistic creations! Don't suppose THREE 45s (2 of the M&F type) would fit it, with the trap rotated slightly?? (With three bends, you can set different angles...)