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cheeky!

I use 600!!!

No I don't think so! I'm interested in getting a new machine with a shirts mode...hopefully will reduce wear.

Hi! I have Siemens Siwamat washing machine model 5030, it is around 25 years old but works fine. BUT I am finding my shirt collars are suffering and wearing out too quickly despite trying the gentler programs. Does anyone have any recommendations or advice as to which new machine would be...

I just use mine to check a wire is (ideally not!) live before working on it.

Thank you, I am v careful with mine but take all this on board!!

Thank you, again I am learning and have seen that it is said best to use other equipment. My circuit test screwdriver is certified for use up to 250 volts and I am trying to understand what the potential dangers of using this on a live would be...I am v wary. May I ask for your expertise as to...

Sorry this is a yawn for you - it is far from it for those like me with less expertise. And I very much appreciate the expertise you are imparting. I have basic skills but keen to learn, hence asking these questions. My old froststat has been on the blink for ages so I am really keen to sort...

Thanks I am learning. If poss I would like the light and hysteresis accelerator so will look into fitting a neutral. You didn't say where the switchanble live would go in that case, so I assume it is capped off. Thank you.

is it feasible to add a neutral to term 4? In that case do I cap off the switchable live?? Where would the neutral be wired to...presumably into the boiler switch?

it will not be quite so "inaccurate"? So if it is more accurate now (term 3) does this mean froststat will stay activated for longer? (One of the things I was trying to avoid...)

I tested the blue with electrician scredriver...it's the switchable live. So I will move this from 4 to 3 in the GREENBROOK. Pls let me know if this is not right, or even right??!! Thank you.

Presme the NTC will be bypassed if 4 is not wired. What will the consequence of this be?

are you referring to the Honeywell or the Greenbrook? Can I just clarify. I am using the Greenbrook now.

Greenbrook says a neutral is needed in 4 to operate the light, does this mean I will not have the light come on?

I mean different makes?

So the frostat terminals are compatible between maes in terms of the numbers? Thank you for clarifying.

The Honeywell is saying N by terminals 2 and 3, can you explain what these N's signify?

Thank you. So is the brown likely to be the permanent live? - This to 1? Switched live to 3? I can voltage test each wire.

sorry the honeywell had brown in t1 (top right) and blue t3 (not 5). Im wondering if the brown is the switchable live. What is the "M" in the greenbrook instructions?