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Have you tried a CFL? Or has it always been incandescents? Why are you using "Long Life" 50w "ECO" lamps which will be neither long life or eco, instead of CFL's which ARE actually long life and eco.

I'm fairly sure thats not how most modern gas ovens operate. The ones i've used have all had two burner modes, "Full" and "low", and a thermostat is used to switch between the two modes as appropriate. This means its temperature controlled, not energy. If the 1-9 instead represented an...

The earth should continue all the way to the fan.

It could have been a bad pull switch, or it could have been a loose connection. Cant really tell at this point after its all melted. Pull switches do have a finite life though, especially if they're constantly turned on and off. IMO they should just be left on, the shower unit itself has...

use the TLC fan calculator here: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Ventilation/Ventilation4.html To calculate the amount of airflow you actually need for your bathroom. It will also suggest suitable replacement fans from their range, but once you have an flow rate you can search...

Thanks. I decided to order one ballast. Free shipping anyway, so wont cost me any more to order them seperately rather than toghether. Will test it out with one tube and see what happens!

He could surely take a spur from the ring to an unfused dp switch, then on to a socket, much like is done in kitchens for the appliances? The unfused dp switch looks just like a light switch and could be mounted beside the existing light switch.

The wife has purchased a somewhat huge fishtank, which requires between 2 and 4 80w T5 tubes. We wont know exactly until we get it setup, but we think it will probably need 3. On her existing tank, instead of buying an expensive aquarium lighting unit I bought a Philips HF electronic ballast...

Yeh its nice idea in theory, but inevitably it will get forgotten about. In our old place, the tap got turned off one winter out of the 4 we lived there. So i'd like to do my best to minimise the risk of it freezing/bursting, and given its all being redone anyway, it seems like the optimal...

i saw that, but surely if you drill a large enough hole to allow insulating the copper pipe while its travelling thru the wall, the wall plate would be screwed into fresh air?

thanks for the info I figured plastic would be a little more freeze resistant as its sorta flexible, but if its gonna burst just the same then no advantage i guess. Do i need to insulate the section going thru the blockwork? that might be somewhat tricky? Or do i just insulate the external...

I've changed some plumbing in my kitchen and need to re-do my outdoor tap. Previous owner had installed it with one of those nasty self cutting strap on boss things which was leaking, which led to a flexible hose to the tap, so i cut that out and replaced it with a proper T piece and a...

If the one RCD covers those 4 circuits, what makes you so sure its the kitchen thats causing it? I had a similar random issue in our old place and it was dodgy junction boxes under the floor which would get damp when it rained lots as the water table was high enough to "flood" the subfloor area.

Well yeh, but at least it stops it running on for 15mins! Any switch that allows you to stop the fan running at all, can also end up "forgotten" about and will result in the fan not being used when it should be. The advantage of the momentary switch being that it cant be forgotten about...

no i was thinking more of a "momentary" type switch that interrupts the live to the fan when pressed, but doesnt latch like a normal switch. So you'd turn the light on like normal, and light and fan would start up as normal. When your finished, you'd turn light off like normal and fan...

A switch in the permanent live to the fan should do it. You might even be able to fit a momentary switch to "cancel" the overrun.

Why havent you tried just supplying the immersoin with power directly? Stick a bit of flex on it with a plug on the end and make sure it works.... Would have cost you nothing and saved you the £200. Similarly, if you have the wiring diagram for the controller, you can simply link out the feed...

If you fit a fan to extract air, where do you think the replacement air comes from if not from outside?

Presumably because theres a possibility that the hood can create positive pressure in the "intake" ducting to the MEV unit, which would mean that air from the cooker hood could travel back down the intake duct and into the bathroom for example.

If your bathroom contains a shower, you will want that fan to run on for 20-30minutes to ensure sufficient ventillation