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Doing it day in day out gives you the confidence to know what should work and that the trickle of water is not going to turn into a torrent. Any pro will also be able to tell you tales of when things have gone wrong. You laugh about them later but not funny at the time. I usually have a wet vac...

The first thing the engineer should do is determine whether the fault lies with the boiler or with an external component. Pumps are a regular cause of tripping electrics. The fact that yours looks like it does points to it being the cause. The wiring looks like a poor diy job and certainly...

Compression or union? If compression, ease the joint apart and put a couple of turns of PTFE round the olive. If union, a smear of jointing compound on the tapered mating surface.

I regularly fit new tails to full rads. You're always going to lose some water so sheeting up and drip trays are essential. Actually, once the rad spanner is inserted on union type tails, hardly any water escapes. Have the new tail ready taped up and switch over quickly. If its a compression...

Have a look at toiletspares.co.uk They have pages with dozens of push buttons and flush plates. Hopefully you can match yours.

You can also reduce anti cycling time on d2. Factory setting is 20 minutes.

The RT212 head may fit and work. Maybe someone has tried. https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-rt212-white-trv-sensing-head/569hg

Plenty of room there if you use an angled rad valve. This will need the pipe to come out of the cupboard lower and then turn 90 degrees up the valve. If you want a straight valve with the pipe going directly into it, you may need a bit more space.

:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

You can get different thicknesses of the bottom blue seal. Contact Tap Magician and explain the problem and they should be able to send you thicker seals. They are just round the corner from me and always really helpful.

On the whole, no, but there are some good people on there. I wouldn't want to tar everyone with the same brush but it is a bit too pot luckish. Best thing is to try and get recommendations from neighbours, friends etc.

Post pics of the top ends of the rad.

Anticlockwise to open yes. There will be vent points somewhere otherwise the rad could not be filled when installed. Check the ends carefully. It may be that the vent screws have been snapped by overtightening in the past. If that's the case, its new rad time.

Find another plumber who will change the valves for you. Even if the system needs a powerflush (which is unlikely if the rest of it works ok) those valves will need to be repaired/replaced first anyway.

Are you sure both valves are open? If they are, it could be an airlock. When radiators are fed by pipes dropping down from the ceiling they can sometimes be prone to airlocking. You can try turning off other rads that do work so that the pump is only pushing water to the problem rad. This should...

Very dangerous stuff. Try all mechanical methods first. If you do use any chemicals and they don't work, be sure to warn anyone who looks at it subsequently and tell them what you have used. Also, don't mix chemicals. This can lead to reactions producing heat and poisonous gasses such as chlorine.

Put a cover over the bath before you start. The enamel coating is a thin layer of glass and as you start smashing there will be millions of tiny razor sharp shards.

Gerberit flush seals often fail because they get little water filled blisters on them. Best to replace but if you pop the blisters with a pin, the valve should be fine until you can hold of another seal.

Without getting into the debate about which type of system is better, converting a traditional open vented system to a combi is perfectly possible and is a bread and butter job for most heating installers. You have clearly looked at the pros and cons as they apply to your personal requirements...

On top of what was already in there. Almost certainly fine. Don't worry people needlessly.