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Never easy to find a dead leg mate, the pipe could be anywhere in your house. Just stick a NVR in and it'll be fine. Vokera compacts and the Sabre variants were pretty bad for this. I used to fit the NVRs as standard when fitting the boiler as they only cost about a £1 however not all of...

Your plumber's correct a non-return valve on the cold supply to the boiler will sort it.

All you have to do then mate is call another engineer and ask for a price.

If the red light isn't 'flashing' when you 'reset' the boiler then the problem is not inside the boiler i.e. it's an external problem. Controls, stat pump etc. If the red light is 'solid' when your trying to reset then it's an external problem as above however I would change the OH stat and...

Yeah, your correct.

The Hex must have burst Tony as there's dirty brown water coming out of the hot tap.

Change the boiler mate and get a powerflush done on the heating system pipework. Nothing to do with the domestic how water side as in the pipework. Sounds as though the heat exchanger has burst in the boiler allowing contaminated heating system water to pass via the heat exchanger into the...

As your man above said there's not an awful lot of info but it sounds as though it's a combi boiler with a burst hex and a heating system with an awful lot of corrosion in it.

Depends where you are mate but it starts at £170 inc vat labour and the part for Glasgow however the Hex is only covered for a month under their terms and conditions (it's a water thing) however £360 gets you a year including the boiler covered for all main or three main components I believe...

Dead easy to change it over mate, four screws I think all done from the front. If you turn the mains (water) off to the boiler at the iso valve then the water pressure should stop rising, I would think.

Thanks Boab, yeah I went to Maryhill but the flowmatics were the range of boilers at the time :lol: Had one of these Lineas last year with a similar problem and got the tip from one of the Glasgow Vok tech guys at the time. Personally I think those guys run the best tech line in the business.

To check the plate on the Linea run a hot tap and keep an eye on the digital display and wait until the temp is up to about 55 degrees C then turn off the iso valve (cold main) under the boiler and if the temp display jumps up to about the 90 degree mark then the plate is blocked.

Vokera only gaurantee this HEX for a month Tony, you have to pay for a year's warranty (@ £360) on the boiler and for the FP to get the Hex gaurenteed for the whole year. Fixed price repairfrom vokera is around the £170 mark. The Hex to buy for us is £200 inc vat and a new boiler-Compact...

Look for the boiler's cable coming out from underneath the boiler and follow it till you get to the end of it, it will either go into a fused spur or it will have a plugtop and plugged into a 13amp socket wall socket. Remove the fuse in the plugtop or from the fuesed spur and replace with...

There's no plate hex on these mate.

You have to check that there's power going to the boiler, check the fuse in the fused spur beside the boiler if there is one or in the 13 amp plug from the boiler first.

U6 is imperial and will have a dial on the front with a red arrow. E6 is metric and is about 1/3 the size of a U6 with a digital display GU is, I think, a combination of the two above i.e. it's a metric meter with a dial but I stand to be corrected on that one :)

No one's disputing the cost £ per hour mate what is being questioned is the cost of repairing (replacing the plate and HTC) a boiler at £600 and is that cost 'reasonable'? Clearly on the face of things as described by the OP that charge isn't reasonable.

Link the orange and grey wires in the wiring centre with a heating demand and see if the boiler and pump starts if it does your motorised valve's micro switch is gubbed.

Get them back mate is the simple answer.