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Blimey you do like wasting money. If you carry on you will have a new boiler by spares..... Stop trying to sort it yourself and either get an engineer who knows what he is doing or get a fixed price repair from heateam

Doubt it's the plate heat ex as it happens on heating too. the symptoms suggest you need an rgi to sort this. Sorry

Yup.....drain down strip and replace o ring......nothing else will do i am afraid.

As a minimum i would expect to hang boiler (you can fix the wall jig), flue it gas it and commission it. But i would not take any reponsibility for any of the wet work you had done. I would suggest you try to involve the rgi as early as poss and discuss what you intend to do and he can...

Guesstimate 400-700 pounds assuming new horizontal flue available.

Maybe i am stating the obvious here but do you have your own registration? Competant? If not you have already broken the law........this site doesn't facilitate diy gas.......other posters note this too

pressure diff maybe split. When you turn on tap does the microswitch make on the pressure diff? If not change it

Joe-90.....suits. Stick him in a metal ball cage spin it around and pop his glasses on and what do you have.......yup a muppet. You can always apply Heisenberg's Joe

Er.....nope. For once you have lived up to your user name :lol: 168 will almost always be cured by a new board. Sometimes it indicates problems with the components listed or even a wiring harness issue but trust me unless you have tested said components and they indicate a fault just change...

First bit of advice......don't open the combustion box. Second.....call an rgi

If it's locking out on overheat tony i doubt it is an ignition problem :? OP. Your issue is heat exchanger related. Unfortunately it will require an RGI to fix for you

Do you have a filling loop or an integral loop?? If second one they are 2 round black nobs at the front right at bottom. Make sure both are fully open......if they don't work the non return valve is stuck (common issue). Remove or replace the entire integral loop

The worcester made one fits in the same space as the electromechanical one. You need to attach the cable is all. Any generic ones would require wiring in

Then the boiler is getting no 'demand' from either the internal clock, external clock and/or room stat. Check these are working first

I have seen literally hundreds of duo tecs. Only ever replaced 3 HES.......reseated a few that were not on properly tho too. If the boiler has been recently fitted and doesn't show a demand for water it is almost certainly crossed hot/cold. HES easily tested. Remove and run a magnet inside...

No flow switch on this one. Either as baxmax said the hot/cold are crossed (or crossed further down stream) or possible pcb fault if boiler doesn't fire or produce an error code.......but my guess is crossed pipes

You have the worcester electro mechanical clock i think. You can purchase the digital/rf stat version for the boiler. Just fits straight in to a blanking plate. Cost - digital timer £110 ish RF stat and programer 160ish You can of course purchase any make but wiring will be required

Ah yes.......Heisenberg 'In quantum mechanics, the Heisenberg uncertainty principle states by precise inequalities that certain pairs of physical properties, such as position and momentum, cannot be simultaneously known to arbitrarily high precision. That is, the more precisely one property...

Correct

No you need to do this at the boiler by linking out the live/switch live. It will almost certainly be the intellistat (grrr) but dont try this unless you feel confident......a new pcb will be expensive. Oh and the boiler will need switching manually all the while for heating