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Why do you need to know? Just so i can put the answer into context

A pic or too would help of the termination plus make/model of fire before i can comment

Usually replacing the cartridge in the diverter valve sorts it (depends on whether you have integral bypass via plate heat ex or bypass pipe tho) if not you need to change the whole div valve. Could be blocked plate heat ex or the div valve motor head also but my money is on the DV

Manufactured for 3 yrs was 3 too many.......i hate repairing these things. I groan when i get sent to one........ :cry: As for fitting it second hand and it don't work.......oh dear. Another illegal install........

ok.......does the pin on the front diferential come out and make contact with the micro switch when you open a tap?......front bottom left. If it doesnt your diaphram has split and needs replacing. Does your flow pipe for heating warm up when you call for water? If so it is the diverter...

Leadlok or a philmac universal connector. You will need to turn offthe supply in the street as you would need to cut through the pipe to fit either of these. Be careful just bending and hammering.....if it fails you won't have enough straight pipe to fit connectors to and you will need to go...

As has been said.....your flow rate is defined by the smallest bore of your run.....i doubt you will see any significant impovement by upgrading the internal 15mm. You ned a 25mm mdpe run then 22mm from stoptap

Hang on i will check the crystal ball........ Sorry OP but without at least the model name/number it's a shot in the dark. Post more details

And you have checked the aps?? Nope thought not. It MIGHT be the pcb......but unless you know what your testing for your likely to throw away £100+......

Fan or aps. You need an rgi for this i am afraid.

Unfortunately there are thousands more like him fleecing the public and tarring us with the same brush :cry:

If it's just one tap it is the tap thats faulty not the boiler. Otherwise, mixervalve or blockage

Sorry but i smell a rat here. My guess is this is an illegal install. OP call heateam but they will require serial and date of install plus installers Gasafe registration......and if it is an install issue they will bill you.

I too have never seen a post off you in the CC but will happily be corrected by you if i am wrong. You surely must see that your basic knowledge is so poor as to bring into question your competance to be doing plumbing work let alone gas work........(apologies to all qualified plumbers). If...

Your boiler is fine....the problem is external. 2/3 port valve is mu guess. And the suprima is a good boiler......pcb aside. New boards much more robust

Most black 'grit' is the sloughing off of aluminium deposits from the inside of ali heat exchangers. Not seen this as much if at all on stainless. It should be flushed out on your first service and isn't a problem unless it's a massive amount. PLASTIC should be used for condense runs

True. Just be careful. If it cracks then you can get fernco adaptors but you would need to dig out around it to attach......or if the floors coming up replace the lot

700!! If when you call for hw your flow pipe on the rads side starts to heat up then it's the diverter valve. If it doesn't and the boiler cycles on off constantly then it's likely to be a sludged/scaled plate heat ex If i changed both (about 150) then it's an hours work, maybe 2 if...

Why gate valves? unless someone has touched em the boiler worked before. Try Pump.....working? Gate valves....are they open why needed. Finally, system blockage. Just how dirty is the system? My guess would be on the pump being seized or dead

Older toilets like this were 'set' on top of a concrete mix then damped down onto it to level then dry. My guess is that you will crack the toilet if you try to break it out. Even if you manage it there will be a plug of concrete adhered to the underside...... I would suggest you try...