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each to thier own john ive tried it both ways many times (in the past) and found if i put skrim on the square edges it feathers out nicer than the paper tape

em right i dnt usually use 9.5 mm boards as they are rubbish but im guessing your useing them to try reduce weight on a weak ceilin (its a btich but have you thought bout takeing it down then you can insulate and use 12.5mm boards) ive never found any difference between the boards mate so go...

yeah limelite is breathable its a specialist renovation plaster specially designed for these old houses with damp, im not 100% on how it would perform when compared to san and cement i spose as you said thatbloke its hard to tell without looking at it, usually if im unsure about it i think of a...

yes

hence i suggested limelite as i dnt know what sort of stuff this house is, id have a guess it lime but i cnt be sure so i gave options

the damp company i work for usually hack off inject then fill any voids giveing the render used a scratch, then do one or two scratch coats with water proofer in and then a final top coat with water proofer added again rule it flat float it up then devil scratch it so the plaster has a key. i...

ill do it with the chippy mate haha

days work mate ive done a pallet of boards in a day before with just a lab and that was on a ceilin so with a chippy you should pi55 it

are you only allowed to render the top of the seat?? if not why dnt you put a bead at the back and one at the front the back one obviously set higher then one on the bottom front lip of the front of ther seat (if you understand) then render the top front and just a bit on the bottom to loose the...

sand and cement should be cheaper mate

i think steve ment you twitch it in after you have skimmed it, if you really dnt want to roll it then i suggest you buy an adjustable twitcher you can get a marshaltown one off ebay new for about 15 quid, i bought one and it straightens out the joints lovley but make sure you run it through...

no good mate as people have said get him back show him and ask him to sort it out

i prefere render to be honest but i hate hardwall almost 100 percent of jobs i do that envolve hacking off and re floating are take off hardwall cos its cracked like mad and not bonded properly, im sure others will be along soon to tell you different though. in summary i hate hardwall but love...

i used it once many years ago when the scaffold came down the scaffolder lost his footin and went face first down the wall luckily he got his balance again but his face was ripped to shreads he had about 40 stitches in one side of his face

dnt pva, sbr it or you can buy external pva but i dnt really rate it prefere sbr. usually if i need to i sbr before the scratch then with the waterproofer in the scratch coupled with the sbr base you shouldnt get any problems with the rate of suction

its water soluable it could break down, sbr is fine though

excludeing the pva part

its been ok in hertfordshire mabey it was the wind heat and a combination of only being 5 mm thick top coat, usually i scratch coat it (yours sounds fine depth wise) then i top, rule then give it a seccond pass to build it out to required depth and level, so a combination of thin coat wind and...

how bout one that cant bend his elbow mate :mrgreen: hahaha

when you say it wnt crack with the joint filler you have put tape on first yeah? for small tight angles i have a wide variety of little filling knifes and what not but what is very handy is to keep a few old credit, debit or store cards as these can be cut down to what ever size of shape you...