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You can have as many nests as you want. I added 3 to a house that already had 8 fitted. Add you say you will need 2 one to control the hot water and one heating zone and another to control the other heating zone. The heat links would both be installed in the airing cupboard and wired into the...

If you connect it to the HW it will only heat up while the water is heating, so once the cylinder is up to temperature the cylinder thermostat will turn it off and your towel radiator will stop heating up to.

You need to set the date and year right to display the correct day. To do this press the menu button (the middle one with 3 lines on it) Turn dial to settings, press dial twice. Turn the dial to set the year then press dial. Repeat for month, date, hour, minutes then finally press the green...

Connect the yellow wire to terminal 2 on your new thermostat, you will also need a short length of wire to link terminals 1 and 4. You will need to set your existing programmer so that heating is on constant for the new thermostat to work correctly.

Yes

As predicted!

No need for a fused spur, just the socket will be fine despite what a certain person who will be along soon to say otherwise.

I think I follow your wiring diagram. It looks like there is no permanent live supply to your boiler. This is required for the pump over-run to work. Though looking again it also looks like there is no neutral either, as you just show the neutral connected to the pump, but there must be if the...

It is mains powered but has volt free switching. That is why there are 4 wires to it L&N and 2 switch wires.

Fit your receiver next to the spur at the boiler. Cut and divert the 2 wires that were going to the clock and thermostat to the receiver. The one going to the clock from the spur connects to L & N. And the one going to the thermostat from the boiler goes to terminals 1 & 3. DO NOT link L & 1.

Link 1 in the top left corner of the wiring centre needs to be cut.

This is what I was going to suggest. You can tell if it has been set to gravity mode by the top light being lit up blue, instead of the normal green.

Is the boiler in a garage? Do you have a frost thermostat? Maybe it was cold enough last night for that to fire your boiler up.

Well it did with mine and my sister's. But I didn't realise that there were 2 different frequency versions. So if the OP's DT10RF is the older version then you are right it won't.

The Drayton +2Rf or the +3RF wireless thermostats both come as a kit with the thermostat and receiver, but the thermostat will pair up with the DT10RF that is built into your boiler. I don't know if you can get either of them without the receiver, though. The timer for the hot water is to...

No probs.

As you have marked your cables L1 and L3 to L on nest N1 and N3 to N on nest L2 to 2 on nest N2 to 3 on nest but note even though this is a blue wire it is NOT a neutral. It is the switched live so should have brown sleeving or tape on it to indicate that it is a live wire.

All of what you say connection wise to the heat link is correct. As you also say the thermostat has already been bypassed, for it to have worked correctly the white wire should have been in terminal 5. So all you need to do is disconnect the 3 core flex to the thermostat and leave the white...

The boiler it device clips into the front of the boiler. If you drop the flap on the front you should see it. It is in the middle and has a green light on it. There should also be a Hive hub plugged into thr internet router.

@ericmark I don't know where you have got the figure of £80 for Hive TRVs. They are £54 each or you can buy a pack of 5 for £199, so £40 each.