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THe 24KW Boiler is normally entry level combi with a flow rate of around 9 or ten litres As long as client has the flow rate my recommendation is always 28 KW and above for decent shower or bath from combination boiler

Well done KD for getting your unvented cylinder sorted out properly .As it has been explained these things can be dangerous for yourself and others around you if they are not maintained correctly

Ideal ask for 42 mm external pipe and insulation as part of their instructions.Ideally it shoukd be run internally Class O insulation is the correct type for external use and that is also stipulated in Ideal instructions.21.5 or overflow pipe is not correct material to use externally...

I have just installed a 4 zone system using a Drayton MI time programmer.An excellent piece of kit Very easy to set up too,as matter of fact the lady of the house programmed all 4 zones herself

You need a good quality impact screwdriver with the correct head this will drive the screws home with ease

I think this fella needs to work out what the difference is between polystyrene and Polyurethane

Taper edge plasterboard is actually made for dry lining where the two tapers meet and filled to create an invisible joint For normal plaster work ,Square edge plasterboard is perfect |I hope this can be of some help

Those cracks will still come through a bit of scrim tape cant hold them back If you are worried about Artex containing asbestos,pehaps you can send a small sample off for testing to be absolutely sure what you are dealing with

There was a load of Honeywell programmers which were faulty ,thats the model affected

Thanks Agile for regurgitating what I had already advised :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Got to keep the Post count up hey???

Which model of Boiler is it exactly ?

lol ,the bottle is standard mould and can be bought from certain manufacturer fernox bottle is normally copied I am fairly sure that sentinel do not make inhibitor for anyone else

check out some local Gas Safe registered guys,a recommendation from a friend or family will be even better That way you will know exactly what is needed to bring your installation up to scratch. Whatever you do,dont bother with these recommend a tradesman type of websites ,anyone who is...

It is very likely to be brass Philips Screw ,good quality screwdriver will unscrew that with no issues Stanley Fatmax or Wera ,a small tap with a hammer whilst trying to turn the screwdriver also helps to shock it into moving

Sentinel X100 or Fernox most definetly ,for a few quid it is hardly worth it . Sooey you can buy that cheap recycled oil for fiver ,pehaps it would be ideal to run your van .................... :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

That particular model had quite a few issues and Grunfos will change them out without quibble They had nightmares when the pumps were first changed over to the new highly efficient design. This seems to have been ironed out now ,we were unfortunately their testers!

Very likely there is a air lock on the radiator,After checking the pin on the TRV is not stuck,I suggest you bleed the radiator properly take out a couple of cups of water .make sure the system is topped up as you do this and the radiator will start working Highly unlikely to be a blockage...

If there are no wet patches and no visible signs of any water leak ,I am sure it will be fine Dont lose sleep over it,I am sure if the chippy had a nail gun ,then being a professional he would have taken into consideration where the pipework is fitted

We sub contract all Mains upgrades to company who specialize in Moleing,this actually causes a minimum amount of fuss and they are normally done in day They are totally equipped for this job and will remove the old pipework where ever it enters the property and fit a new stop cock and...

the tundish pipework?