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I have similar age Myson Round Top panels in my house and they’re still throwing out the heat just fine. Take a look at the specs for Myson Premier HE type 22 and you will find a list of sizes and heat outputs for panels very similar to the radiators you have...

Yes it’s a very straightforward replacement with the heatlink connections as you have listed.

If you can identify those two cables ( and maybe some of the others from cylinder stat, boiler etc ) entering the wiring centre in a photo I'm sure someone will help.

You have two Earth connections where really only one is normally required (unless the Earth is being looped through to be used elsewhere) and the Hive Receiver does not even need to be Earthed at all so as long as you can safely identify those two cables in the wiring centre one of the "Earth"...

Is there a main wiring centre where the 3 port valve, boiler, cylinder thermostat, room thermostat etc are all wired together? It might be best to wire the Hive receiver into that location and abandon the old programmer wiring altogether, unless that cable has an unused wire to use for HW OFF...

If the timer is still working it would be worthwhile trying to identify the wires with a multimeter. If you aren’t confident with that, some pictures showing how that multi core cable is wired up at the boiler end would be useful.

If the heating is zoned there should be some motorised valves in the pipework which would open when that zone required heating. Normally the thermostat for a zone would directly control the corresponding motorised valve, which would open when heat was required and also tell the boiler to fire...

Yes that’s right and the M wires in 4&5 can also be disconnected, they are supplying power to the timer motor which will no longer be required.

Is the timer connected to TA1? If so you would have to remove it’s wiring to connect the Hive receiver. The timer would then have no effect on the boiler.

Yes, with the boiler isolated from the mains just remove the wire link across those contacts in the boiler and connect as you say. You'll also need a Live and Neutral power feed for the Heatlink which you could take from the same location in the boiler.

Definitely setting 3. I have a similar Vaillant boiler and it doesn’t like anything less. I’m not sure it will damage the boiler at a lower setting but it needs a decent flow in order to shift the heat out into the system. It’s most likely poor flow that’s causing it to rapidly overheat and...

Google Spinal Tap. They liked to play really loud and allegedly had guitar amplifiers with volume controls that went up to 11.

Liking your Intergas prayer mat Dan. I want one.

The return is usually wired through to an aerial socket in another room (eg bedroom or kitchen) so you can send a signal from the set top box in the lounge to be viewed on another TV elsewhere in the flat. Is there another socket in the house? It may be that all of the wiring for the lounge...

How high does the pressure rise when the heating is on? I know the engineer has checked the PRV but it may still be a good idea to tie a plastic bag on the PRV discharge pipe for the day to check for any water release.

It's most likely it isn't really maintaining pressure all day. As the pressure naturally rises when it's hot it won't be so obvious how much water has been lost until it cools down and contracts in the evening.

Remarkably little acoustic energy is required to make a very considerable noise so, as Detlef says, virtually none.

Link Live to the 240V RT connector (with the power off of course) then check briefly that the boiler will fire. If that works ok you just need to remove the link and take a single wire from Heating ON to the RT connector to get the thermostat working.

The Danfoss is just a switch but the dual channel Hive connects mains voltages to the four output terminals and there's really no way around that.

When you say "manual mode" do you mean setting the boiler timer to permanently ON and does the boiler then deliver heating ? If so, that is OK and is likely the only way you can allow the Hive to take control of the heating schedule.