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All lock shield valves open and no stuck thermostatic valves?

Is there any microbore going to the downstairs radiators or are they all fed by 15mm pipe?

It is the temp of the flow leaving the boiler and on many Vaillants it is displayed on the LCD screen.

Be interested to know what the flow temperature is getting up to on the boiler and whether it sounds like it's running at lower power.

Can you try turning off the central heating for a while and see if the boiler is coming on at all just to heat the cylinder. Some pictures of the system and the programmer would be useful.

The two red wires will go into A and B on the new Honeywell. One is Live and the other Switched Live but they are effectively interchangeable and either can go to A or B. The black wire, which is a Neutral and no longer needed, should be carefully covered and placed safely to one side. It...

Interesting thanks. The way my VR66 is being used, with only the cylinder stat connected to it, it gets our 428 running for DHW with no conventional signals applied to pins 3/4 of the boiler. Only the Central Heating demand triggers the boiler in the usual way with no apparent assistance from...

There is a setting d78 for the target flow temperature for DHW which I’ve changed to 75C. I have the partial load for DHW set to 12kW which is fine for my cylinder. I suppose you could redirect only the existing boiler demand signal to go via the VR66, triggering the boiler for DHW whenever...

It looks like the softer start up characteristic of DHW mode is built into the boiler programming. It doesn’t begin by running at 60% of full power in this mode but limits itself to the DHW equivalent of d0.

Having reread the thread I’m getting the impression that with ebus control of heating the boiler no longer runs up to around 60% of full power in the first 30sec or so, but instead it won’t ever ramp up beyond the power set by d0. Is that a fair summary? I already know that this is the case for...

I use an ebus controller purely to call for DHW, with the CH still controlled by a conventional thermostat. In DHW mode the boiler no longer runs for a while at around 60% of full power, which used to frequently cause the flow temp to rise very rapidly and trip off the boiler. It now starts...

Burning natural gas results in the production of some water in the form of steam. If you simply allow that steam to go up the flue a fair proportion of the heat being produced by the gas is wasted. In condensing mode this steam is robbed of it's latent heat (becoming water) by contact with the...

Definitely not more economical to heat the house overnight. It's likely that the radiators are too small for the current level of house insulation when the weather gets really cold. They are struggling to replace the heat that is being lost. It may only be getting sufficiently warm after 4...

In the initial setup the brown was switched Live and the blue was Neutral. That doesn't match up to the new wiring. Is it installed in the same location?

I don't think you have said what model your current gas boiler is and what is the problem with it. Assuming it can still be repaired, then even if it's old and inefficient it will still be cheaper to run than using electricity.

How long does this radiator work properly after being bled?

That's a bizarre current switching requirement for a room thermostat connection. Maybe a more hefty mains voltage operated relay would be a good idea to buffer the controls into the boiler.

Have you checked the actual voltage at the orange wire of the 3 port valve when the boiler fires with no intended demand from heating or DHW, ie is there the full 230V triggering the boiler or is it some much lower voltage? It's not unknown for the valve to pass through a voltage sufficient to...

Apologies I haven’t played with the e heatlink and forgot it was battery powered. You may not have enough room to do much with the live and neutral wire apart from snipping off the exposed part of the wires and, while ensuring they are not in contact with each other, tape them up. Can you find...

If the heatlink is going where the bdr91 is located, the Live and Neutral will be needed to power the heatlink and the other two wires will go to terminals 2 and 3 in the heatlink. Terminals 2&3 operate simply as a switch and won’t damage the boiler by connecting any high voltages to it.