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I tried logging the communications using ebusd some time ago and failed to find anything that looked promising so I gave up and settled for simply changing the flowsetmax temperatures, as required, for heating/DHW. I may have another shot at it now the VR65 is connected again. A nice little...

I got mine reasonably cheap with the intention of trying to monitor the ebus commands it sends to the boiler to activate the DHW mode. That project didn’t work out although I still have a raspberry pi hooked up to the bus and that can send a variety of other commands to the boiler. I’d still...

Thanks for posting this I've dusted off my VR65 which I gave up on a couple of years ago because... I didn't really want to use the NTC supplied I wasn't keen on having to connect up the 3 way valve to the box and I preferred my old mk2 Nest to the vaillant ebus room thermostat. Having set the...

My own house was as noisy as hell when we first moved in with hissing and water hammer almost every time a tap was used. A pressure reducing valve just after the stop cock made a huge improvement.

You should be able to get the flow temperature down to around 50C which shouldn’t feel scalding hot at the radiators. When you turn the temperature dial does the display above (if there is a display) show the set temperature and what does the display read while the boiler is running and the...

I understand there seems to be a problem with the water temperature but you haven’t mentioned a room thermostat in all of this, which is really what you should be turning down if the whole house is getting too hot. Is it that the radiators are so hot that the house temperature is still...

The silver loop is definitely the right one. Both the black and red valves need to be opened. In addition there looks to be a screwdriver operated valve next to the red knob which must also be opened. Once it is up to pressure it's best to close all of the valves.

I think the rest is ok. You'll probably find it much easier to identify everything when the various cables are all separated out ready to go into a proper wiring centre.

Might be my dodgy eyes but I’m not seeing the HW OFF connection from the cylinder stat (stat terminal #2 on the Y plan diagram) which should join up with the same from the controller plus the valve Grey. There should definitely be 3 wires coming from the cylinder stat.

Boxes full of random connectors are pretty scary until you get your head around all the connections. I've had one of these fairly inexpensive wiring centres for several years now and it makes life so much easier when making any modifications to the system. There are standardised wiring diagrams...

I’m not really into Opentherm as my boiler is a Vaillant and for a year or two I’ve been controlling it’s flow temperature using a raspberry pi running ebusd and connected with an ebus usb interface. The heating flow temp is kept relatively low and chosen with reference to the local outside temp...

Would that be easily achieved by adding an opentherm cylinder thermostat, I'm guessing it probably isn't that easy.

Has the system been balanced? It's likely there was a very healthy flow through these radiators and their lockshield valves have been turned right down low (to almost off) to restrict the amount of water going through them. Make a note of how far you open them if you decide to experiment with...

Don’t think you’ve given any info on what age or sort of house you have but would you reasonably expect the area under the floor to be damp or could that be a result of the losses from the heating? Should say I think it’s unlikely the radiators or their valves are the problem; I’d expect it to...

There isn’t a water temperature gauge on the boiler but how high has the control on the front been set and do the radiators get hot to the touch? During this on/off switching of the boiler, if the radiators remain hot then the boiler is doing it’s job and it just means it probably can’t wind...

I’m guessing the thermostat would set the boiler to a lower temperature when there is demand for heating and then immediately reset it to a high temp when that is satisfied, which would take care of any subsequent DHW requirement. There’s no way AFAIK for the Nest to know when both heating and...

Glad you got it sorted. If you ever plan to do any work on electrics a cheap multimeter is well worth investing in, for example..... https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas830b-digital-multimeter-600v/75337

Some pictures of your system will make it easier to see what might be causing the problem. Can you easily see the flow and return water pipes on the side of the boiler? When it is running, cautiously feel how hot the flow pipe and return pipe get and report back. I’m guessing the flow will...

Have you checked for mains voltage across terminals 5 and 6 on the backplate with a multimeter? With the supply turned off check carefully the path of the mains cable to those two terminals. Something may be loose and making a very poor connection.

If you have decided which unit you are replacing it let us know, it should be straightforward to change over. Some pictures of any motorised valves in the system will give more of an idea of the type of setup it is in.