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Is it just the lamp misbehaving or is the boiler also running permanently and ignoring the thermostat setting?

Thanks. The Red Live Wire in 1 goes into the Honeywell 1 Yellow Switched Live in 2 goes into the Honeywell 3 The Green/Yellow Earth in 3 can be connected to the earth tag in the Honeywell. Blue Neutral in 4 goes into the Honeywell 2

Can you post a photo of the towerstat wiring?

The Heatlink doesn't really need an Earth so at least Live & Neutral from the same mains feed as the boiler. Then 2 wires from the Heatlink terminals 2 & 3 can go to the two 24V RT connectors (remove the red wire link across these two in the boiler if it's still connected). (It can also be...

All you can ever do is give it a try. They’re pretty good and you can experiment with the location of the room thermostat before finally screwing it to a wall. In difficult cases it may also be possible to mount the receiver somewhere a bit closer and still hide it’s wiring back to the boiler.

Then a battery operated wireless thermostat would fit the bill.

It is likely. As a test try giving the valve in question a helping hand by opening it with the manual lever next time it fails to fire up the boiler..

Is the pin hard to push in against the spring and does it spring back out readily?

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OK Brown goes to Hive Live L Blue to Neutral N Black & Grey can go either way round into Hive 1 & 3. The thermostat switching is operating on the low voltage section of the boiler which would be wrecked if any mains voltages were applied to Black or Grey. That's why I asked if it was a single...

If you post a picture of the existing receiver and its wiring or a diagram of the connections someone will help. The required wiring will almost certainly already be available from the boiler end. Is the Hive the single channel (heating only) model?

I would disconnect the Heatlink wire from the boiler terminal 4 to see if the live signal is coming from the Heatlink to start with. If it is check that there are no spurious links or shorts in the Heatlink wiring strip. If necessary you might also remove the Heatlink Live supply so it is...

Does the boiler already have a room thermostat wired in? If not there’s a problem as you would need to access a part of the boiler that isn’t recommended for the likes of you and me.

If there’s a clock still connected at the boiler then depending on how it’s wired it could possibly override the Heatlink. Try setting the clock to permanently OFF and see what effect that has, if any. The Heatlink certainly should work in exactly the same setup as the old Drayton scr.

Yes, there’s no need for the additional power feed. The wires from the boiler 3 and 5 will do fine.

If the wire in terminal 27 was shifted up to L2 the Heatlink would get a permanent power feed from the boiler regardless of the setting of the boiler timer. Then you wouldn’t need a new supply feed. Either way I’m sure it will work fine. (y)

If you already have a separate power supply for the Heatlink then as you say the Neutral can be disconnected at the boiler. The Heatlink should ideally get it’s power from the same outlet as the boiler so it becomes safely isolated from the mains when the boiler system is powered OFF.

The heatlink does need a Live and a Neutral in order to power itself up. The wire you are taking to Heatlink 2 will need to be linked across to Heatlink Live and the Neutral wire will go straight to Heatlink Neutral.

Just to add, I’d suggest getting some insulating tape in various colours and identify each wire using a sensible colour tape as you disconnect them from the old unit.

Yours look to me like they are the double convectors and the newer 530 x 1962mm in the list I have is rated at just under 10800.