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The Accenta will only work with standard closed circuit wiring.Your Galaxy will be wired eol (1k across , 1k end of).You would have to remove the resistors from the devices and wire to suit the Accenta or get a replacement panel that matches your resistors...another Galaxy !. Lucky that it has...

Between the 24hr and PA conections on the Omnicron circuit board. The siren requires a constant 12v +/- supply to the A and D cons , this charges the battery and holds off the siren.The B / S cons are switched neg from the panel.

Use the scb connections on the circuit board. SCB 0v to D + siren to A - siren to B SCB RT to C strb - to S If only using 4 core , I would keep the tamper and connect the strobe to the bell trigger. HTH.

If you replace the battery ,you should then be able to use the alarm without the external siren triggering when the power is cut,that is what its there for. As long as you are not adding any more detectors , carry on using the 9542.If you plan additional detectors , upgrade to a 9651 or a...

You have a "dirty trigger" problem.You could swap the SB for a speaker , you will need to swap the wires in the panel to the speaker conn ections , unless anyone elsle has a fix.

There should be a fused spur unit close by, if not then turn the whole house supply off,do not work on live equipment.If your battery is in good condition , the alarm should carry on working.Open the panel (internal alarm will sound,silence with user code), replace blown fuse , if you are lucky...

The codes can be defaulted back to factory defaults , the sequence is in the engineers manual C&K 700 or 800L

Texecom , Viper , Rockonet ..all similar and will work with your panel, although not very responsive on upvc.I would also fit a magnet..it then tells you if you try to arm the system with the door open, and you can use the chime facility.

Most modern bells (1992 onwards) have a 15 min approx timer , if not you just have to wait for the battery to fail,probably about an hour.

Its hopefully an optical illusion..as your alarm wouldnt set with a tamper fault.You should have done a few tests to make sure the tamper switch was working :D ...common error is to leave the timer link in the test position :D

I think the 47 is the actual value..47ohms.

What brand of panel is it , some can be unlocked , some cannot. If your system is monitored , then they have some justification to ensure the programming is not altered by the enduser.You may have some small print to this effect.They should offer to change the code for a callout fee.

Remove all power , mains and battery , then power up mains first.Enter your code to stop the alarm sounding,replace battery , close lid and reset...Beware of mains voltage within the panel.

Do a walk test , this will establish which detector is on which zone.If you can't do a walk test , set the system and have somebody trigger each detector whilst you watch the keypad , make a list of what is displayed when the detectors are triggered. Only you will know if you have the...

As long as all your devices are on there own zones , then you have used 5 , and have a further 3 at your disposal.

Your alarm will not work until the tamper fault is fixed.Are the devices from the window contacts or shocks ( shocks usually have an led on).Depending on your ability it may be better to get an engineer to service and repair your system.If you fancy doing it yourself , there is a site with good...

Screwfix , cef , any electrical wholesaler really...Maplins are quite expensive.