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There isn't a standard pipe size as such but the majority of mixing valves have the Hot and Cold pipes 150mm apart. I think Mira showers are 147mm and Bristan are 150mm.

Sounds like the seal on the cover you took off might be perished/flat.

Essex Flange....it sounds like the pump hasnt been tee'd in to the best of areas on the HW pipework.

They are far better at eliminating air intake to draw off pipe....and the Essex connection will be used SOLELY for the shower pump. A Surrey flange is still used for ALL your hot water pipework. A Surrey flange is usually fitted if u are having bother with air on your entire hot water system.

I dont know of any combi boilers that will work on one pipe systems.

If you feel pretty confident about your plumbing ability i would fit an Essex flange . This will be the recommended method in your Shower pump instructions. If you take your time you should have no problems. Put plenty of Boss White on the tank connection to help the seal.....and remember to...

sounds like an old FEP system....seen quite a few piped with 10mm revolvers.

Is the shower passing water? What kind of shower is it? A mixer shower or an electric shower?

Both will require pipework alteration. Essex flange is a bit trickier to fit as it requires drilling a hole in the side of the cylinder. Surrey flange screws into top connection of cylinder and will require you to slightly alter the hot water draw offpipe and the expansion pipe. Essex flange...

U will need a shower hose washer. U can get them at a plumbers merchants or B+Q. It will only cost about 20p. It should only be tightened hand tight.

Yes...its fine to mix them.

I dont like these one way valves you can fit to vent pipes (butterfly valves i think). They are a bad idea in my opinion. If they fail or get stuck your HW Cylinder is basically unvented and a bomb waiting to explode(implode). As previous poster said , an Essex or Surrey flange is the...

You get all different types of Saniflo. U get one that will do a WC , basin , bath and shower. The one you would be looking for is a SaniPlus http://www.saniflo.co.uk/

Reasonable??!! They seem far too cheap in my opinion. If he is a registered gas engineer you should bite his hand off and get him to fit it tomorrow before he realises hes not gonna make any money off the job!!

Id be inclined to go for the 35kw boiler. If your calculations are correct then only allowing 0.5kw for heat loss in pipework etc is cutting it a bit fine.

Before starting to rip up the concrete i think i would capoff the pipework going to the conservatory under the wooden floor to see if that stops the leak....if it does , the leak is under the concrete...if it doesn't , the leak is under the wooden floor. (Pray its the wooden floor! :lol: )

Not sure that works.......the ones ive used u have to take the bleed nipple out completely , so u need to shut off radiator. Suppose it depends what injection method u use.

The inhibitor you inject into the bleed nipple. You switch off both rad valves and crack open one of the nuts attaching the rad valve to the radiator. Drain off some waterinto a suitable container(enough to let the inhibitor in) Tighten nut back up. Inject inhibitor. Open radvalves. Bleed radiator.

By 'motorised pump vlave thingy' , i assume you mean either the pump OR the motorised valve. Swapping either one should take around an hour to 2 hours. Pump is £60 ish Motorised valve is between £50 and £100 depending how many ports it has. So ask their hourly rate and this will give you...

If you take your time you will manage the radiator solution no problem. If you cannot find the drain valve it is your only option.