Search results

Thanks opps for your advice on the scoring. Your right I I was a serious woodworker or a chippie I probably would spend 800 quid on one.

It's not opps, some other people online mention some toe in rather than a parallel blade to body.

Flameport I've only bought it to cut my kitchen end panels, so I'm not going to spend loads of money on a plunge saw and rails. I'm only asking if anyone has any helpful advice on this and thought their may be some minor adjustment I can do.

Hi All, Just bought an einhell plunge saw and the tracks also. Before I take out the rubber strips for the first time I decided to check how the cutting disk lined up in the machine. If you look at the attached image the disc is closer to the machine body at the bottom of the picture than at...

We decided to not go down that route for a few reasons so I'm stuck with the feet levelling

Hi All, I am fitting new kitchen units with adjustable legs, the floor is very uneven. I have been levelling the rear legs first and then the front ones using a long spirit level, it is a real pain due to the floor. Does anyone have a better, easier method of doing this. Hope I've put this...

Hi All, Just about to fit new kitchen units with end panels. Just wanted to know what the best way to cut these end panels is, router(I have one of these) or plunge saw with rails or something else. Also should they protrude 22mm at the front of unit. Finally our floors are very uneven so...

I did think of swapping the bearing for a larger one but didn't in the end as I thought it was designed to work with a 6mm one so best leave it in there.

I think using the handle on this jack to release it gives no control, I found turning the release valve directly I can safely lower my car.

I hear you, I just like to be able to repair stuff and also work out what's wrong. Not worth the risk to myself or the car. How much do you think I will get for the scrap metal value lol.

Just taken another look at the jack and have taken the release valve out. Cleaned the insides all looked OK. Put back together and now as soon as you start to undo the jack handle to lower jack the jack drops right away at this new point. Took it apart again and noticed where the ball bearing...

Woody the trimmer joist you said about putting across the side door. I had not heard of that before but I've done some reading on it now. So correct me if I'm wrong, this trimmer joist lays across the top of door opening where a lintel would normally go and is then fixed to the next adjacent...

Thanks Woody, will brick in between. Your advice has been really helpful.

Thanks woody I really appreciate your reply. I agree that a 450 spacing is better and that's what I want now. I'm thinking of doing the beams myself now so I get it done how I want. I will be fitting noggins halfway across joists. At the joist ends the ones that are not strapped to the wall...

Update, I am thinking of changing the slope of the roof from lengthways as it is now to slope across the width instead which will give me more headroom in garage. So the way I think it needs to be done is to remove the two rows of bricks under the copings at the front and at the side the bricks...

Stivino you are correct, I forgot I posted that. It's been sat in the shed since today when I thought I would try it out.

I was probably wrong there, I will try it again later to verify.

I think this is the v1 of the yankee jack, I will have a search online for a service kit for it. It doesn't drop suddenly after the initial tight bit,I would say a quarter turn after this and then drops suddenly.

Initially the release valve is a little tight right at the start but then it turns quite freely.

It belonged to a really nice guy who passed away.