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Why not ask the electrician what he'd prefer you to supply? Or is your next thread going to describe a misunderstanding between yourself and the electrician regarding who is going to install the CU? ;)

L-N IR testing won't show up an RCD tripping fault.

Good advice, I think.

As long as he gets accessories that can accommodate 2x 6mm² cables.

Get the frickin OSG then, for heaven's sake :x :) It contains all the stuff you're confused about in easy to digest simple English with nice helpful colour diagrams. Get it - it will stop you being so confused!

Strongly agree with the above! Do yourself a favour and get some decent (and cheap) books. Read John Whitfield, and therafter refer to the OSG. With that and lots of searches on this forum, I successfully completed a notified DIY full rewire including test and inspection myself as part of my...

I know that, but I dare say many people don't, and so the situation could well arise in practice, probably much more easily than somebody replacing 3/5A fuses in two FCUs with 13A fuses and connecting ~13A loads. Yet only the latter situation is prevented by a fully compliant installation.

Cheers for the suggestions. I think I'll go by the book to play safe. Hard to see what would be wrong in principle with, say, a twin backbox with the two FCUs for CH and shower pump, though. Even if somebody later changed the fuses for 13A and used them to supply bigger loads, it's no...

Cheers.

Hi, Just want to check I have this straight. Helping a friend install a shower pump in the airing cupboard. Only practical supply option is a spur from a ring which currently terminates with an FCU with a 3 or 5A fuse (I assume, for now, as I couldn't pull it due to it's silly location!)...

Not necessarily - I replaced 5x 50W halogen GU10s with these LED bulbs in my 2.4x2m bathroom... http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/u1042ww-gu10-wide-angle-warm-white-p-2248.html Before I had a shadow line about 18" around the top of the wall, but with these 120 degree beam angle LEDs, the shadow...

Installed some during my renovation. Only a 2 bed bungalow, but i decided to 'cover all bases' and install both types of smoke alarm (optical and ionisation), CO, and heat. Got CO and one smoke in the area outside the bedrooms, smoke in the lounge/dining area, and heat in the kitchen. All Kidde...

You assume wrong. Crimps = good (done with a proper ratchet crimp tool - BAS, your pic, please and thankyou :) - and then sleeved), chock-block = bad. You can plaster over your properly crimped connections.

A better way would be to have a constant base load on the installation that puts the instrument in a range where it has it's best accuracy, then measure the difference made by connecting/disconnecting the individual item you wish to measure the power consumption of. Or just use an instrument...

I assume your existing cooker is gas (or electric oven gas hob) if it's plugged into a socket. If you've gone and ordered a powerful electric cooker/induction hob, you have two options. 1. Change it for a gas one 2. Have a suitable cooker circuit installed

I was doing that sort of stuff at GCSE level 15 years ago. Kids nowadays are playing with PICs at primary school, I think :)

Glad you're alive, OP :). You're wiring wasn't necessarily unsafe... until you fitted metal light switches/fittings to an unearthed lighting circuit. Get it sorted. No you can't insulate the lights. Can't you return them?

Photographer !???

Looks like you had it all switched on with the cover removed and no busbar cover! :shock: One slip...

Ah sorry - I missed that little detail :oops: In that case... aah... eeeh... hmmm... maybe not then. Unless he removed it all with the patience of a saint and can absolutely gaurantee none of it has been excessively stretched, kinked, insulation nicked etc etc. What's that reg number about...