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You dont need to remove the paint from the wall before you skim it. You or the plasterer can grout over the paint to form a key for the new plaster. Mix playpit sand cement and pva together the same as paint and then brush on the wall. Leave for 24 hours and then you can skim over it. :)

It will depend on how smooth you left the scratch coat. You can pva it or i would get a 4 inch grinder and cut lines through it and that will form a key for the top coat of render.Hope this helps you. :) S/S

Yes you can use angle beads on the edges and scrim all joints. :) S/S

If you have done one before yes if not then no :)

It is knowing when it is time to start troweling up. A lot depends on the back ground you have just plastered over some pull in quick and some are more slower. A good trowel helps as well you need one that is broke in or semi worn. The top front corners should be rounded off you can do this...

You can dot and dab or plaster the 3 brick/block walls the choice is yours.If the walls are painted you will have to pva them before you plaster as the plaster will not stick to paint. On the dot and dab walls scrim all joints before you skim them. :) S/S

Yes you can plaster over painted plaster what you need to do is mix up a grout of fine sand cement and pva and paint it on the wall. Leave it for 24 hours and then you can plaster it. Hope this helps you . :) S/S

If you get a steam cleaner it will lift the paint from the stonework without damaging it. Do not use brick acid on real stone. :) S/S

Sorry i should have said to just wipe the dirt from the bricks with a sponge. Try not to push the dirt back into the bricks as you wipe it off. It is better to have 2 buckets of water by your side take the heavy dirt off with one and then wipe clean with the other. It will take a few goes to get...

I could not have put it better myself JBONDING. :D

You could try a brick cleaner called DISCLEAN you will get it in most builders merchants also use a kidney brush when you apply the cleaner to the brickwork. It will work it right it to the brick. You will have to do it a few times for it to work. Then wash of with clean water and leave to dry...

The plasterer that done that ceiling must be one of these new 4 and half day men. Quality and know how is the key. :D

Put a couple of handfulls of cement in to it

A 5 ton machine is good enough to pull the footings. Ready mix delivered is the best way to go back wagon up to hole and just pour. If you mix on site you will have to barrow it in. :)

I done a refurb job 4 years ago where there was eggshell paint on the walls and ceiling which is something similar to your job. What i did was mix up a grout with 1 playpit sand 1 building sand 1 cement and put 4 capfulls of FEBOND PVA to it and mix up like paint do not over water the mix. Brush...

Yes you can use render beads. Before you put the scrach coat on brush on a coat of watered down pva to help stop suction. The mix i use is 4-1-1 scrach coat 5-1-1 finish coat with washed plastering sand. There is no need to use mesh if the brick work is ok and no big voids in it. You can use...

I take it you mean on some parts of the wall from floor level up. Yes you can use DRI-COAT from floor level to about 1 meter up the wall and then you can bond the rest. Then you can set it with thistle board finish as it is for use on low suction backgrounds. :)

Take a fools advice that has been at the game for the past 25 years YOU srim all joints wall and ceiling. If you dont you will keep painters in work for life good on you . :D

If you are tiling the whole bathroom floor to ceiling you can get the plasterer in now to skim the ceiling.If you are only tiling part of the room you will have to plasterboard the walls before you get the ceiling done. This is because the plasterer will have to scrim the joint between the wall...

Yes you will have to prop the wall before you fit the lintel. :)