Search results

Hello, You say the whole of the property has been "hardwalled" If you mean a floating coat of hardwall , applied by a plasterer ,then all that is needed , is to skim it. In a house electrics and plumbing are 1st fixed then the ceiling is tacked before floating . As your ceilings are not...

Thanks again for your time and advice . I have taken on-board everything , everybody has said . A 3t machine will just fit through neighbours fence . Breheny are building a by-pass near us . I was passing by yesterday , and they were breaking out some concrete with a mini-digger and pecker...

Thanks for the advice , it does not sound like a DIY job . There is no access for the 16t machine . Rock drill and plugs , sylentmite , lots of deep drilling into concrete . As you say I should ask a demolition company , I was hoping to do it myself . Clutching at straws , would digging...

Hello, Advice would be very much appreciated. I have a , 500mm wide , 550mm deep , 5 meter length of concrete footing that needs to be removed. The top of the concrete is at ground level. When this has been removed it will be replaced with deeper footings for an extension. They have...

yes

I agree with Micilin ,it is much easier and safer for the plasterer , if they are cut out last .

Ideally the lining should be 2 or 3 mm proud of the plasterboard.

If you can get the old tiles off, without damaging the plasterboard too much. You could laminate another plasterboard onto the existing laminate wall. It would then be 12mm+25mm+12mm plus 12 or12mm+25mm+12mm plus 9mm. To laminate use bonding compound . Knock it up a little bit thicker than...

If you are leaving both skirting and coving ,the easiest method would be float and set .Easier to keep the margins on skirting and coving.

Are you going to remove the skirting and coving?

If there is any heating in the room turn it off. Open the windows for 24 hours to introduce some damp air . The damper the better. Suction on plaster boards does increase the longer they are in a dry warm room . Hope this helps.

I agree with noseall . We had some flats to plaster, the dabbers forgot to continuous dab in various places. We used expanding foam ,it left a solid board . If the existing boards are weakly attached ,i suppose there is a chance the foam ,could move them. Perhaps you should experiment ,do...

Hello, Rib lath for sand-cement on bad backgrounds. Does not deal with your damp issue though. http://www.catnic.com/libraries/document/1028.pdf

Hello valleyboy Rendering is best applied to dry , clean backgrounds .Your damp blocks with water coming through them are (in my opinion )no good. You could try rendering with sand and cement (minimal cost) ,then if it comes off,nothing lost, in way of money. I have done some tanking...

You could do it your way and tile first,but the plasterer would have to charge you more. Getting an equal margin against a tile is a little bit fiddly. The easiest way is as described by " roughcaster "

Looks good

Hello I would chop it off,taking care not to disturb the good plaster. The skirting sits on the floor .The carpet is pushed down in the space , between the gripper and the skirting .My house used to have the same skirting,it was built in the late thirties .

Hello No need to scrim ,screws do not "pop" ,like nails .

Hello, As you are dabbing ,your reveals could be greater than an inch. To get it to like look right ,the board on the face of the wall has to be plumb. The brick-work could be any shape ,plumb , falling back , falling forward . So unless the brick-work is perfect you will have reveals to...

Hello Once you have dabbed ,you will have returns of about an inch. Use ordinary skim beads for the two uprights and 3mm skim stop bead for the arch.