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Ok thats what i was talking about as well, from your concrete foundation up to dpc i would use engineering brick, unless of course you have a deep footing, i generally pour my footing to 3 course below ground level then build up the engineering brick there. if you have gone deeper than that the...

Hi...by frost level i take it your talking ..up to damp proof course. (dpc or dpm). engineering brick are a very hardy brick and are used widely for below dpc. i dont know if you are rendering the outside of your self build or it is brickwork. either way red/blue engineering brick up to dpc are...

Its a little bit more work....but you say the chiney breast is external....so why place the air brick out side. so you get no cold air internally. You can cap it if you want too...but it can wait.

Hi, as it has been said on here already i would of thought you needed planning permission if you are going to go through the proper routes. However if you were to leave the front garage door in place and erect a stud wall internally, it would look like a garage from the outside, and unless...

Is there a reason you want to insulate the internal walls, do you have the walls ready to work on or are the still in need of stripping. If youve got them ready to work on insultate them using the cheapest option for you. the palster board you can dab on with adheisive then plaster,or like you...

Given the amount of snow we get during the year...i would of thought that your office use a barrier fence to keep people from walking in the affected area. You state it misses the building at the bottom so your right of passage should be changed until the snow has fallen using the barriers...

You only need 150mm bearing minimum on a catnic lintel....plus the fact that the brick/blockwork above has been there a while it should not move anymore. My only concern to you would be ...how old is the window, does it meet the fensa requirements if you were to sell.

i don't know if b&q still do this and its a little cheeky but they used to do a free design plan. It was 10 years ago when i moved into this house and money was tight and the house had a small kitchen so i was planning on extending the house and moving the kitchen into the living room. I...

I did a bit of digging around and found that some authorities had refurbished some of these houses..this is what i found. Wimpey No-fines The properties were built in the 1950 - 1970’s and the construction is such that the external walls are commonly 8 inches thick with a band of...

Hi...yes there are ways to do this, the easiest and cheapest i would of thought was to clad the outside of the wall, insulating the wall, then cladding it using upvc or wood clad. but this would more than likely mean that you would have to seek planning permission. There are other options...

Hi. i take it you are sure the external airbrick is in the chimney breast. And that it is the only one. The chimney being capped, gives you a little problem, in that you have no air flow, therefore you could do with another air brick further up the chimney breast or built into the cap...

OK this is just a little silly now...you had replied about removing bricks or drilling to look for insulation....i was in agreement with you .. and emphasizing the point that they would need proof or need to prove that it was missing.

Yes..i had to use 140mm thermolite block on 1 skin of my integral garage. I put built in hangers. but really wish i had built them in and not used the thermolite block. And before anyone says.. i have said i dont like using thermolite...your quite right..i have 2 large cracks in that...

Why not build in the joists instead of hanging them.

I too agree, can you not move a couple of inches to the left/right or up a bit. then just fill the hole youve now created.

When you say the waste from the upstairs bathroom does that include the toilet. If not its a clean water drain as opposed to a foul water drain and you couldnt use is for your intended new toilet.

The ones you talking about that we use at work we call dense crete. and they are a little lighter than solid concrete, but they are a b.......d, they are hard to cut...full of old crap ...ie condoms ..glass...metal. i would do concrete block everyday over them

£40 square metre. ground out and replaced. not including hire of any means of access

That is what you implied and that is what i was affirming....dont you think...?

If as you say the house is a year old..then yes i would of thought there was insulation in the cavity as it is now standard and in regulations. It should still be under warranty. but its very hard to get the builders to do any work unless you can prove that the insulation has been missed...