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Id say more of a leak on pipe/rads than valve losing that much. Might need to get someone in

You will always get a fluctuation of anything up to 0.4 bar so don't worry.

Forget the boiler for now, I'd be sorting the rads out first, run as normal and see what happens

I'd try mine first, less chance of cocking up, ie pump valve snaps or leaks etc

No Right I'll make this really simple, leave all as is, put hose on drain off by boiler open up drain off, leave everything running inc pump, heating, hot water the lot, leave it for 10 mins and close drain off, bleed all rads as usual and see if it improves, if not and your stuck get a...

Spirovents go on flow for air, and return for sludge

Turn it on, shouldn't make a differance

Can we ask what legal reason? Thing is there are enough things like pumps etc for you to be able to comply with ease nowadays

No but stranger things have happened

Mick they also sold some finests, took a few out

Water shouldn't come out of the trvs

Halstead spares are massively overpriced.

Most water boards do a free lead replacement also

Air can enter through tank in loft, use drain cock leave running for 10 mins see if it improves

Same again hate plumbers mate, silicone is much better

Won't get one, can be made special order but your talking big money

They're taking the pee, guarantee they went through it. Get on to them asap

Waste of time bonding boilers now anyway as most of its plastic inside, apart from gas pipe I don't bother.

As Picasso, ignore most traps and washers, silicone everything

Could be fan now I've heard it, either way case needs to come off which you can't do legally, other option is if they have left a drain valve above boiler put hose on and flush through, gather its open vent (small tank in loft) if not check pressure in system, I'd still get it checked and serviced